It is not often that guides and taxi drivers take tourists to Bagore ki Haveli as its approach lanes are long and winding. The driver then has to negotiate narrow, congested paths to reach Gangaur Ghat where the historic Haveli is located.
But once inside the building, any travel weariness melts away. Bagore ki Haveli serves as a treasure trove of art and history.
Of particular interest is a huge collection of string puppets tastefully displayed in a huge hall — a perfect setting for fun selfies.‘Putli Sansar’ has a string puppet royal court with the kings occupying the throne while ministers and dancing girls wait in attendance. Camels, elephants and horses add to the grandeur.
“It is a collection of puppets made by artists at a workshop in 2009. We have put them on display to encourage this art,” Shailendra Dashora, Director of the West Zone Cultural Centre, which maintains the Haveli, told The Hindu . “The idea is to preserve these dying arts and crafts. We cannot save everything but we are trying to do our bit,” he said.
Puppet artist Shrawan Bhaat, who takes care of the puppet museum, said he was pained to see the art dying. Originally from Nagaur, Bhaat’s ancestors settled in Udaipur and practised puppetry. “This talent has no charm now. Earlier puppet shows were held in schools, villages and public places. Now it is mobiles, television and computers all over,” he said.
Mr. Bhaat’s family makes puppets. A puppet can take four or five days to create and can cost between Rs. 400 to Rs. 500 depending on the costumes and the quality of material used. Buyers only trickle in these days, some foreigners and a few Indians.
The faces of the puppets sometimes resemble real people or famous personalities, says Shoorveer Singh, who is in charge of the museum at Bagore ki Haveli.
Beautifully restored, this 18th century palace overlooks the famous Lake Palace. Built in 1751, by the then Prime Minister of Mewar Amachand Badwa, it was used as a government guest house for several decades. It was handed over to the West Zone Cultural Centre (under the Ministry of Culture) in 1986 in a dilapidated condition, but was slowly and carefully restored to its original glory.