At Pappu’s, a cup of tea and a platter of politics

The shop in Varanasi is home to lively debate and is a stepping stone to many political careers

March 14, 2017 12:42 am | Updated 12:42 am IST - Assi Chowk (Varanasi)

Favourite haunt: Politicians, student leaders and litterateurs are regulars at Pappu’s tea shop in Varanasi.

Favourite haunt: Politicians, student leaders and litterateurs are regulars at Pappu’s tea shop in Varanasi.

Prime Minister Narendra Modi may have taken the political route to become an “adopted son” of Varanasi and Uttar Pradesh, but a “son of the soil” plays host to politics every day here, nurturing debate and discussion, careers and critics. While his given name — Vishwanath Singh — will evoke little recognition, just a mention of his popular nickname “Pappu” elicits instant recall: “ Oh, Assi ka Pappu, chai dukan ? [you mean Pappu of Assi, the tea shop?].”

Pappu’s tea shop has no sign board, nor proper tables and chairs — a yellow tungsten bulb hangs from a soot-layered wire. But old-timers will tell you that veteran socialist leader George Fernandes held a press conference for two hours at the tea shop over four cups of lemon tea when V.P. Singh was the Prime Minister. BJP leaders Kalraj Mishra and Sambit Patra too are patrons and more recently, the entire crew of a popular Bollywood film, Mohalla Assi , were sipping tea at Pappu’s.

Rumour has it that when Prime Minister Narendra Modi had to file his nomination papers from Varanasi in 2014, Pappu’s name was suggested as a proposer.

Politicians apart, many eminent Hindi writers and litterateurs, mostly from Benaras Hindu University, which is nearly two km from the shop, have been regular visitors. For local politicians and student leaders, Pappu’s tea shop is an important step in their careers. Hours are spent over a cup of lemon or milk tea, discussing politics, exchanging nuggets of information.

Standing room only

The room itself boasts just two wooden benches by formica-topped tables. Two more benches stand outside on the road. Regular visitors matter-of-factly squeeze themselves on the benches and get engaged in political debate. Some wait for hours for a chance to sit while others stand around.

Noted Hindi writer Kashinath Singh’s popular novel Kashi ka Assi is based on the everyday political discourse at Pappu’s. “Kashinath Singh, along with other great Hindi writers like Balraj Pandey and Chowkiram Yadav, has been regular visitors at my shop…” 67-year-old Vishwanath Singh ‘Pappu’ told The Hindu on Sunday morning, a day after the Assembly poll result.

“I graduated in politics listening to their everyday discussion and debate … I’ve been enjoying it and never mind their long sitting at the shop over just a cup of tea,” added Mr. Singh. “I’ve been voting for the BJP when it was the Jan Sangh in 1967 … ideologically I’ve been closer to the BJP much before Narendra Modi came on the mainstream political scene,” he said visibly happy with the party’s performance in the Assembly polls and in Benaras in particular. In 2012, Mr. Modi’s flagship “Chai pe Charcha” interactive television show held at this tea shop was one of the most popular.

With arthritis now allowing him only a few hours at the shop everyday, Pappu’s son Manoj Singh now manages the shop. His three brothers have moved into other businesses.

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