35 years of a home-spun fashion icon

Leather and lifestyle: the travel of a global brand that originated from Puducherry

September 18, 2014 02:02 pm | Updated 02:02 pm IST - PUDUCHERRY

PUDUCHERRY, 17/09/2014: (FOR PAGE 2) Dilip Kapur. Photo: Special Arrangement

PUDUCHERRY, 17/09/2014: (FOR PAGE 2) Dilip Kapur. Photo: Special Arrangement

From small town origins to global stage fashion icon, Hidesign has hand-crafted one of the most celebrated and oft-retold success stories in these parts.

In its 35-year journey, the luxe leather brand has quite a few highlights on its timeline which it can be proud of. In 1992, its ‘Small Boxy Bag’ bagged the Accessory of the Year by the Accessory Magazine UK, an award handed over by fashion icon Princess Diana.

French fashion house Louis Vuitton was holding a stake in Hidesign by 2007. Today, Hidesign markets products across 2,000 stores in 23 countries including the U.S., the U.K., Russia, Germany, Australia, South Africa, Malaysia, Philippines and China besides India.

Celebrating its 35-year milestone, Hidesign has put together an ‘Icon Exhibition’ which showcases original pieces from the brand’s early years and traces its history down memory lane. The exhibition, which began a few days ago, is on till September 20 at the Ashram Exhibition Hall on the Beach Road.

Dilip Kapur, president, Hidesign, was keen to exhibit first from the Ashram institution, as he grew up in the Sri Aurobindo Ashram here.

While recognised as an Indian brand that has made a mark overseas with its handcrafted leather products high on craftsmanship, not many know of its roots in this coastal town.

“This is where it began. Our connection with Puducherry has always been strong. So when we thought of this exhibition, we wanted to do it out of Puducherry first,” says Mr. Kapur. The exhibition has on display classic doctor bags, briefcases, satchels and duffel. A panel at the exhibition says the brand’s Boxy Bag was liked by Princess Diana, while its Andre bag was liked by Nelson Mandela. Steven Spielberg is apparently a fan of the brand’s Roma bag.

Hidesign’s story began when Mr. Kapur had completed his studies in the U.S., and worked briefly at a leather company. There, he came across the ‘E.I’ Leather, which used a special vegetable tanning process. He discovered this to be East India leather, which was produced in and around Puducherry.

Curious, he researched about it on his return to Puducherry and discovered the leather to be different from what was available in Western markets. At first a hobby, he set up Hidesign as a two-man workshop in 1978. The early operations were out of what is now the Le Dupleix hotel. In its early years, the brand stood for counter culture and rebellion against mass-produced leather goods. The use of brass fittings instead of zinc alloy was one such statement. Independent, alternative shops in Australia and the U.S. were the first to stock Hidesign bags.

Today, Hidesign bags and other products can be found from Selfridges in the U.K. to its exclusive standalone store in Moscow. After the exhibition travels to Mumbai, Delhi and Bangalore, a limited edition of the 11 bags of the ‘Icon Collection’ will be re-launched and sold in Hidesign stores across India and their website. While Hidesign products have a global style, it has most certainly been influenced by Puducherry’s unique heritage, says Mr. Kapur. “We are loudly and clearly saying we are from Puducherry,” he says.

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