According to the Geographical Indication Description, India, an original Kanjivaram saree should be in the lustrous three-ply silk (called murukku pattu ) with real zari (thread made of gold and silver). It should also have contrast borders ( karai ) in korvai (an interlocking hand weaving technique), and the pallu ( thalaippu ) in contrast to the saree’s body, joined by a technique called petni, explained textile and handloom expert Sreemathy Mohan. The height of a Kanjivaram saree varies from 45 inches to 48 inches, and the length of the saree, without a blouse, is 5.50 metres, or six gajam.
A classic Korvai woven in Kanjivaram silk involves the interlocking of the body yarn and the border yarn.
If one notices closely, one can see a slightly uneven line looking like a hand stitch at the point where the two join.
In a Korvai saree, one can see the laborious work of interlocking two different textures of yarn used in the body and the border.
The experience and dexterity of the weaver is showcased in the saree’s finish, she said.
