Biting into a crunchy masala vada and sipping on strong filter coffee, even as the strains of a well-rendered Kalyani float by: that is the stuff Margazhi seasons in the city are meant to be of.
This year, make that a ragi dosa with some fresh chutney and lip-smacking sambar , and if you must, a sugar-free sweet, because the health food movement has invaded the canteens of our sabhas.
Over the years, the caterers have changed their menus to match the season. This year is no different, with almost all the canteens offering healthy options for their patrons.
The aroma of tangy sambar and dosas , coupled with the scent of freshly brewed filter coffee, fills the air at the Music Academy canteen even as hungry people line up for a quick bite before the start of the 4 p.m. concert. Close to 1,000 patrons come every day to this canteen run by ‘Mint’ Padmanabhan that is best known for its Kancheepuram idlis .
In the kitchen, V. Mani, Mr. Padmanabhan’s assistant, leans over to pick up a flaky parotta off the grill. “This year, the whole-wheat parottas have replaced traditional ones in a move to eliminate maida completely,” he explains.
“ Ragi and kambu dosas continue to be popular, but this year we have introduced wheat idiyappam and dry fruit poli ,” says Mr. Padmanabhan, adding, “We make sure our wheat idiyappam is light and fluffy, with a slight change in colour being the only distinguishing factor.” The canteen celebrated its 75th anniversary on December 24, and is the oldest in the city.
A short walk away from Music Academy, a visit to the Narada Gana Sabha canteen reveals some more idiyappam and sevai varieties
R. Natarajan, a regular for the tiffin, orders a pudhina idiyappam that is served with a spicy kadalai curry . “Every day in the past week, they have had a different kind of sevai or idiyappam. My favourites so far have been the beetroot and onion idiyappam and the apple-onion sevai .” he says.
“We have been flavouring the string hoppers with vegetables and herbs for nutrition,” says Revathi Rajan of Gnanambiga caterers that runs the canteens at both Narada Gana Sabha and Vani Mahal.
Known for their badam halwa , the Mount Marriage Catering Service canteen at Sri Parthasarathy Swami Sabha on Bheema Sena Garden Road now offer sugar-free sweets. When it comes to low calorie, high-fiber options, the canteen offers red rice puttu , vegetable idlis with carrot and turnip and plantain pith dosa . “My philosophy is that anyone who comes to the canteen should be satisfied, and eat to their heart’s content,” says K. Srinivasan, who runs the canteen.
Many patrons seem to prefer healthier options, especially as the music season wears on. R. Kamala from Philadelphia, dips her crisp ragi dosa into the cup of sambar , and, between bites, explains thats she has been eating all her meals at sabha canteens for nearly a month now. “Initially, I gorged on the different vadas and bhajjis on offer. Now, sense has prevailed, so I am glad to see that all the sabhas have some excellent healthy options this year,” she says.
