For the past 25 years, Mohammad Rabiq has been sitting outside the Parthasarathy temple in Triplicane, selling iron vessels. On Wednesday, however, he shifted his wares to add to the bargain and bustle surrounding Kapaleeswarar temple in Mylapore, because for him, the Arubathu Moovar festival plainly meant better business. For the over 65-year-old Y. Pichammal, however, the festival was about braving the crowds and catching the first glimpse of the Lord as he came out in procession.
Thousands throng the temple every year to witness this festival that is a celebration of devotion. It is only on this day that the 63 Nayanmars are brought out in procession. “The Arubathu Moovar festival has been taking place every year for nearly 450 years. Preparation for the festival begins almost one and a half months in advance and hundreds of people are required to lift the idols and take the procession forward,” said Brahmashri Dr. Srinivasa Sastrigal, Vedavadiyar (Priest), Kapaleeshwar temple.
While hundreds waited near the main gopuram for the procession to begin, several crowded around two young boys on a bicycle, who claimed to have caught God within a laminated sheet. “Keeping looking,” they said, holding a sheet with psychedelic prints, “you will see an image of the Lord.” A short while later a man was manoeuvring his way through the crowd with a strange cardboard box with Chinese letters on his shoulders. But once the Nayanmars were brought out, four in each vahanam (vehicle), Lord Kapaleeswarar and his 63 devotees were the axis around which devotees thronged.
With barely any space to stand, and the unforgiving April sun beating down, most seemed undeterred and resilient as they waited for the procession to move on. While many scouted for a safe vantage point to observe the procession, some valiantly strode past the crowd to the vehicle to collect the viboothi and kumkum.
When asked about what made them travel long distances and brave the crowds, most said they could not miss the procession, no matter how difficult it was. “Once you come here, it draws you year after year,” said a devotee.
Goutham Chand, who was born and brought up in East Mada Street, has been watching the festival every year for over 50 years, and the number of devotees, he says, has only been increasing.
“It is astounding to see so many elderly people coming despite the crowd. The procession halts in several places, of which the Padinaru Kaal Mandapam, Kapaleeshwar Tank, North Mada Street and the Eesanamulai or the eastern corner are significant. Several people also come and set up food counters and distribute food and drinks like buttermilk and coffee to the devotees for free. My family too is going to distribute food in the evening on Mathila Narayanan Street. The entire area looks festive, grand and great during the festival. Nothing can replace this experience,” he said.
Though the streets were buzzing with stalls selling beads, bows and arrows, flutes and inflated guitars, among other things, not all vendors come here just for the money.
For a vendor who was selling lamps and pots near the bus stop on R.K. Mutt Road, the festival was not just about making money. She said she comes all the way from Kancheepuram every year to be part of the festival and devotion.
In places like these it is hard to define what makes the devout religious.
For the man sitting atop his merry-go-round, looking down at the throngs of devotees, religion may seem like a spectacle, but for the man balancing his child on one shoulder and holding his aged mother's hand, religion is perhaps about keeping a living heritage alive.
Keywords: Kapaleeswarar temple, Arubathu Moovar festival
Just happened to browse through the narration of the festival by Asha Sridhar. The narration has brought before my eyes the scene of the festival which has alleviated my disappointment of not been able to be present on the occasion. It cannot be denied that the Thiruvizha of Mylapore Kapaleeshwara Temple and Parthasarathy Perumal Temple are the sole pride of Chennai which is cherished beyond generations. Kudos to Asha for a wonderful coverage of the festival.
The festival which is 450 years is part of India's heritage. The devotion of people who come braving the weather and long distances is outstanding. This is true of the organisers too. There is something the volunteers could do other than providing water and food. Directing people to observe hygiene by trashing only in bins provided and to take only one what one can consume to minimise waste will go a long way to make the festival more enjoyable. While there is not much greenery around, planting trees all around the tank would also help in lowering the temperature and provide shade and shelter. Funding should not be a problem as the temple administration has started realising the value of properties owned by it and dues are beginning to be recovered. Very soon the festival will become international to attract a lot of overseas Indians.
A well written account of festival. I liked your finishing lines, that describes 2 accounts of a religion.
The last part of this article is so true. Well said.We Mylaporeans we take immense pride as culture keepers of the chennai city.Kapaleeswarar is our life line in mylapore and any festivity in that temple draws out one and all into the streets.Elite not exempted.Its our family function.The crowds, the noise and the enthusiasm is so unique. we grew up basking in this and its a life time experience. We would want to have more of it again and again.However,I really wish people dont litter the streets so much.Cleaning the house after the guests leave is a huge chore:)
Please continue to provide more coverage on the entire Utsavam. I still remember my mother taking me to the kids' school right in front of the Mandapam, and using the opportunity to also partake these festivities. With many decades since, the memories are fading slowly, but the joyous crowds for that seven-year old then are still fresh. Keep up the reporting.
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