The Menu

August 13, 2014 10:46 am | Updated 10:46 am IST - Mangalore: MANGALORE:

Special dishes that are made during Aati. Photo: H.S. Manjunath

Special dishes that are made during Aati. Photo: H.S. Manjunath

What is aati without its incessant rain? Outside, a curtain of raindrops drapes the sprawling, idyllic tiled-roof house at Pilikula on Tuesday, while, inside the smell of steamed jackfruit and ground gram wafts in the Guthu Mane.

Though relatively low-key, the annual Aatidonji dina (one day of Aati) held at the Dr. K. Shivaram Karantha Pilikula Nisargadhama attempted to showcase traditional Tulunadu.

A row of medicinal plants took the visitor to an era where the season traditionally implied fending off diseases. The visitor also had a chance to savour 21 varieties of homemade sweets, curries and other preparations served on traditional plates.

Adapting the tradition

Explaining the fading tradition of the season, writer B.A. Vivek Rai said it was the only month when the Bhootas (village deities) and Yakshagana characters took a “holiday” and the Aati Kalenja took over. “During this time, he is considered all powerful. Played by local traditional healers, the Aati Kalenja went house to house creating awareness of the diseases of the season and gave out medicinal herbs as cure,” he said.

Communicable diseases

With diseases such as malaria and dengue taking centre-stage during the monsoon over the past five decades, Mr. Rai suggested adapting the tradition to counter communicable diseases.

“The health awareness message of the tradition must be continued. New Tulu idioms can be made – ‘Malaria from fresh water, filaria from sewage water’, which can be spread by the Aati Kalenja,” he said.

Noting the turnout of barely hundred people sitting in the corridors of the Guthu Mane (Manor House), Mr. Rai rued the loss of key Tulunadu traditions. “The local food has evolved to suit the temperatures. In the summer, the food cools the body, while in the Aati rain, the special food heats the body. Moreover, medicinal plants are incorporated in the food. Urban Tulunadu has much to learn from its rural cousins,” he said. Attributing the low turnout to the lack of publicity, for which the district administration was to blame, Deputy Commissioner A.B. Ibrahim hoped that repeated Aati programmes would revive traditions in the same way Kambla (buffalo races) has been revived. “Every region, whether it is Tulunadu or Kodagu or Kerala, has its own traditions developed for the monsoon. However, in the modern world, the younger generation would rather prefer fast food and junk food to traditional cuisines,” he said.

Mangalore

Mentheda ganji, Sarane adya, Halasina garige, Kesu dantina palya, Thimare chutney, Arasina yeleya gatti, Padengi kanile gasi, Akki unde, Uppad pacchil, Halasina gatti, Guri appa, Pejakayi chutney, Racche chutney, Kuduta chutney, Suruli patrode, Idli, Arita pundi, Pathrode, Tajank kajipu, Nugge soppina ambade, Tekkare Addye.

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