It is no more than an autorickshaw-turned-food court with a few plastic chairs for effect. But there might be a few culinary lessons for chefs of big restaurants at this roadside eatery on Kuntikana Road near Bharat Mall.

The most pleasantly surprising feature that sets it apart from its posh counterparts is how well the meats were marinated. Be it mutton head curry, mutton boti (intestines), chicken pudina-palak, chicken pulimunchi or the more staid fish and chicken masala, the brilliant marination ensures you are not left munching on a piece of rubbery meat. The stuff is tender but not soggy; firm but not like boiled bubblegum dunked in hot Indian gravy.

At this joint with no name, the spice is made to blend so well with the meat that the flavour lingers on as long as you decided to chew – just like good bubblegum. When asked where he learnt to cook, the bashful chef Lakshman Achari (29) says: “From all over the country.” Since his family could not afford to educate him, he started at the tender age of nine and worked in Mumbai, Surat, Pune, Bangalore and Hyderabad. He then decided to team up with his friends Ravi and Suresh Poojary.

Another facet that should make meat lovers happy is that chef Achari allowed the meats to retain some of their original flavour. More often than not chefs allow the spices to overwhelm and subdue the primary ingredient, which is the meat. So, whether you are having chicken, mutton or brinjal hyderabadi, it all tastes the same.

All the curries are priced below Rs. 40. You can choose to have them with ragi mudde, roti, chapati, Kerala parota, idly, neer dosa or rice.

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