The Paigah tombs complex at Phisalbanda on the fringes of Hyderabad, is set to be added to the Swadesh Darshan circuit along with Qutb Shahi tombs, Raymond’s tomb, and Hayat Baqshi Begum masjid.
The tombs — numbering a few dozen — are where the Paigahs, who were the armed guards during the reign of the Nizams, are buried along with their wives and mistresses. Inside the walled enclosure are some examples of the most exquisite sepulchral craftsmanship and art of the 18th and 19th century.
“We have proposed that the tombs complex be added to the Swadesh Darshan circuit, and we are in talks with the Aga Khan Trust for Culture for technical support. They have experimented with the conservation work there. The stucco, marble jaali (latticed screens), and friezes need special care as they are very intricate,” said N.R. Visalatchy, Director of the Department of Archaeology and Museums, Telangana.
“Under the scheme, we will work on the site to improve the lighting and landscape to create a memorable visual experience for tourists,” informed Ms. Visalatchy.
The tourist focus is a ray of hope for the site, which was almost written off due to encroachment and many strongmen occupying the site and even building houses within the walled compound with kitchens and toilets around the graves before 2009. “We had to evict nearly 28 families and build a wall to keep vagabonds and encroachers out,” said a worker on the site.
The complex contains tombs of the first Paigah nobleman, Abul Fateh Khan titled Nawab Taig Jung Bahadur, as well as his descendants. At the entrance is the Naqqar Khana (drum house), which was restored in 2015 using traditional conservation materials.
But inside, time, nature, as well as vandals, have caused havoc.
Some of the latticed screens are damaged, there is vegetal growth in the niches of the masjid, and the tombs have widened the cracks. The exquisite pietra-dura work on marble in red and green precious and semi-precious stones on Hussain Unnissa Begum’s marble grave has been chipped off by treasure hunters. Hussain Unnissa begum was the daughter of Nizam Afzal ud Dowla who married Khurshid Jah, a third generation Paigah nobleman.
The mausoleum styles are an amalgam of Rajasthani and Mughal elements blended with local inspiration. Some of the decorations appear to be inspired by pineapple due to its strange appearance and rarity.
The central government scheme of Swadesh Darshan would mean more funds for conservation of the site, which would also help place the tombs complex in the heritage context along with other tourist sites built during the reign of the Nizams between 1765 and 1948.
