When Jama Masjid’s evening prayer – Azan – commences just after sunset, the narrow streets of Chandini Chowk swell with devotees, pouring from Delhi's largest mosque in search of food for ‘iftari’ – the evening meal of Ramzan. But for many street vendors along Jama Masjid selling traditional sweets or cuisine, Ramzan does not always mean increased business.
Neela Fari, a Muslim visitor to Jama Masjid, explained that Ramzan represents the most holy month in Islam, in which devotees not only perform their five daily prayers but also fast for 30
days, abstaining from both food and water in the Delhi summer heat from sunrise to sunset. “Our prayers provide us with energy,” asserted Ms. Fari.
As a result, the breaking of fast after sunset is an event that brings families to the market to enjoy special meals together. For Mohammad Shan, owner of Kallan Sweets, located
near Gate 1 of Jama Masijd, the holy month brings business prosperity – nearly doubling the sales. Mr. Shan said that some favourites of customers during this period include ‘paneer ki jalebi’ and ‘keema ka samosa’ and it helps to rake in a total of Rs. 20,000 to 25,000 daily for the shop, that is in business for over 75 years.
Nevertheless, for many others, competition during Ramzan can be steep and income increase is almost negligible. Doubled over his banana cart in the hot sun, vendor Samshad Khan explained that even while foot traffic may increase during the holy month, fruit prices skyrocket and thus profit is not very substantial.
High costs and tough competition, sees food cart vendors like Mr. Khan make only about Rs. 100 per day. The street vendor trade is not just comprised of independent sellers, but there are networks of carts owned by a few enterprising ‘thekedars’ and who rent them out. Thus, increased Ramzan traffic may not transform into profit as negligible little remains for the cart vendors after they have paid their ‘thekedars’.
While Ramzan aims to create a unifying experience, the socio-economic divide looms large in the streets.
