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FINE WINE

Cantemerle, crus, classification

Philippe Dambrine

The invitation to a tasting of Chateau Cantemerle stirred my interest, not merely because it has a viticultural history that dates back to 1354 or that its Grand vin finds a place in Bordeaux’s ancient, and somewhat contentious, official wine classification.

This was to be a vertical tasting, something that is rarely organised in India, where wineries prefer to show off a range of their wines over lunch or dinner. What such general tastings — with their mix of whites, reds and dessert wines — add in terms of variety, they lose in terms of focus. Vertical tastings — in which different vintages of the same wine from the same winery are had — concentrate the mind. A true appreciation of wine doesn’t lie so much in the acquaintance with wide variety as in the discernment of small variations. Like history, the truth about sipping lies in the details.

Philippe Dambrine of Chateau Cantemerle brings four vintages to the table. The 2004 was young, lively and easily approachable, but lacking in gravitas, which Dambrine assures me it will acquire in a few years. The 2000 was a bit of surprise, heavy and almost oppressively tannic, a remark that the Chateau’s Director sportingly took no offence at (“Yes, it’s not my favourite vintage and some bottles behave very differently from others.”) The 1996 was a riot of Cabernet-dominated flavour and beautifully balanced, gossamer-like tannins and a backbone of refreshing acid — easily the best. As for the 1988, it was a tad flabby and seemed headed on the way down.

Comparing like with like is instructive. It really doesn’t matter if you can’t identify particular vintages and their characteristics — tasting wines this way at least helps you determine what kind of style you like and why you like it.

As rankings go, Chateau Cantemerle is a fifth growth in the 1855 Bordeaux official wine classification in which red wines from the Medoc region were ranked in terms of quality from first growth (premier cru) to fifth growth (cinquiemes cru) at the initiative of Napoleon III. There are as many as 18 fifth growth estates, but Cantemerle is a household name thanks to an interesting twist. It was not included in the original 1855 document, a result of possible oversight, and found a place a year later, thanks to some hard lobbying. This may not sound like such a big deal at first, but it is. The 1855 wine classification has been changed only once after this — when Chateau Mouton Rothschild was bumped up from second growth to first growth status.

It is not surprising that to many, French wine classification seems intended to mystify and confuse. And Bordeaux is set to become even more complicated with the reintroduction of the Cru Bourgeois classification. Dissatisfaction with what was perceived as the static and outmoded 1855 classification had resulted some eight decades ago in the recognition of other Bordeaux wines a Cru Bourgeois list, which was amended in 2003. This amended classification was annulled in court following allegations of possible bias, but will now be revived in 2009 (starting with the 2007 vintage).

Too confusing? Blame it on that Gallic appetite for obscurity.

mukund@thehindu.co.in

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