It feels right out of a dream sequence. You cycle through vast acres of salt pans with the breeze caressing your cheeks and a majestic view of the ocean. A decade ago when I had visited Veppalodai, I could only walk around the glistening white salt pans to catch a glimpse of the Gulf of Mannar from a distance. This time round, I find it has transformed into a gem of a place hidden from the crowds.
If beaches, sun and sand appeal to you, then the coastal stretch between Dhanushkodi and Tuticorin is the road to hit. There are several branch-offs from the ECR, but not all pathways to the ocean may be accessible. The one at Veppalodai has been developed by the Motha family, who own 3,000 acres of salt pans in that belt, and have built a perfect beachfront retreat — Aqua Outback.
Veppalodai now is as much about the place as it is about the four-year-old eco-sustainable property. While taking the road from Tuticorin to Rameswaram, at the 20th kilometre in Kalmedu, is the stretch of the coastline that hasn’t yet made it to tourism brochures.
From the main road, you can only see the salt pans sparkling like snowfields. I turn right from Ottapidaram only because I have the permission of the salt pan managers. Unless you have booked yourself in advance for a stay or visit to the place, you cannot trespass the area.
Here to eternity
It is noon when I reach the crystalline calm waters of the gulf. Only silence and solitude envelop me. Fishermen have just returned with a haul of sand dollars. Their wives excitedly display the catch — flattened sand-burrowing sea urchins called sea cookies.
Against the backdrop of salt pans, a kite surfer enjoys his moments on the calm blue ocean waters at Veppalodai
“There is something mysterious, seasonal and symbolic about these shells,” says Allen Charles, Aqua Outback manager. We walk towards a thatched roof sit-out that is right on the shoreline. Hammocks, charpoys, rustic wooden chairs and tables are strewn around for guests to sit and listen to the waves break, watch the sun kiss the horizon or the light do a samba on the water.
The place caters perfectly to thalassophiles. They don’t just jump into the waters for a spectacular swim, watch the migratory birds or the resident flamingos fly low on the horizon, bike on the moonlit white sand, kayak or snorkel. “They also understand and learn more about marine life here,” says founder-owner Arjun Motha, who is India’s Number 2 kite surfer. The place has a lot of protected reefs and corals, islands and lagoons that allow for adventurous marine activities.
Having grown up in the coastal town of Tuticorin and played in the salt pans owned by his father and grandfather, it was Motha’s idea to convert the disused pump houses and sheds into minimalist but modern rooms. So he modified seven of them and also allows single tents on the beach for guests who want to spend the night under a canopy of stars.
Adventures galore
Meditate at the tip of the island christened The Peninsula, take a boat ride to the nearby Kariyachalli island, kayak along the two-kilometre stretch of mangroves, watch the barracuda and the garoupa dart through reefs in a feeding frenzy, gaze at bio-luminescent algae and coral reefs beneath the clean shallow waters, or play beach volleyball or football. Whatever you choose, it is therapy for both mind and body.
The best thing I did was to watch the sunrise while kayaking, and view the sunset sitting in one of the waterfront shacks. If you are up to it, you can kayak till the mangrove forests and see dolphins leaping.
Sitting on an elevated 180-degree sit-out called the Panorama, it was a delight to watch young travellers splash colour on the exterior walls of the rooms. “We always encourage our guests, to creatively contribute to the development of the place,” says Motha.
Strict waste control is practised here. The area is a no-plastic zone and also pet-friendly, while smokers need to bring their personal ash-trays. A lot of the furniture and embellishments, are repurposed or upcylced from palmyra. Chief cook Munniswamy is an expert in fish-based dishes. At Veppalodai, every little thing adds up to an awesome experience.
Aqua Outback at Veppalodai is srinkled with many such open air thatched roof sit-outs hitting the ocean waters
How to get there: The nearest airport, railway station and bus stand are in Tuticorin, which is about 25 kilometres away. The other nearest town is Valinokkam at 40 kilometres. The distance from Rameswaram is 155 kilometres and from Madurai is 125 kilometres.
Where to stay: Aqua Outback has sea-facing rooms that are spartan but chic with open-to-sky showers. There are five double rooms which can accommodate four persons each, and two dormitories for 10 people each. There is no room tariff, but a per person charge of ₹4,800 per day, which includes pick up, snacks and three meals.
Things to do: Line and rod fishing, kayaking, snorkelling, biking, kitesurfing, outback boot camping, bird watching or a jeep ride through the salt pans. Some of the outdoor activities are charged per head. For details, log on to www.aquaoutback.com
