All roads lead to Rome

Here time surrenders itself. Notes and nostalgia from the world’s Eternal City

December 27, 2017 03:29 pm | Updated 03:29 pm IST

 Inside view of the Collosseum

Inside view of the Collosseum

As a self-avowed Italophile, it was heartbreaking to have planned the trip twice, only to abandon it. But at some point, the resolve to visit Italy reached a crescendo. And this is a country that doesn’t disappoint, whether you are on an inner quest, or seeking to embrace a rich cultural experience.

Italy can be very expensive, but a nifty search can save you a tonne of money. Rome extends its courtesy to the traveller in more ways than one. Armed to the teeth with information, and exhaustive reading of the voluminous guide books, an overpowering sense of anticipation surrounded me when I touched down at Rome.

A gloriously sunny afternoon greeted us, as the aircraft landed at Fiumicino airport (located 30 kilometres to the south west of Rome). The airport is efficient and you are out with your baggage in no time. Taking a shuttle bus instead of an express train to reach Roma Termini, the city centre, turned out to be a good idea. It was thrilling to sit by the window of a bus and see city life unfold layer by layer.

Unlike other places, Rome sees history not in the rear-view mirror, but squarely in front of it every single day, and has done so for the past 2,500 years. It was established around 753 BC, and setting foot herehad an electrifying effect. I sprinted out to explore the streets of ancient Rome armed with a camera. By now, night had set in.

Walking past the cobbled streets of ancient Rome, I saw the magnificent Colosseum. An awe-inspiring amphitheatre, it was built in AD 80 by Emperor Vespasian for staging deadly gladiatorial combats and wild animal fights for public viewing. It could easily hold 55,000 people at a time, seated as per their social rank. It was being restored when I was there. Towards the right, the imposing Arch of Constantine stood between the Colosseum and Palatine Hill. It is the last remaining arch in Rome from the ancient period. An inscription bore the words “inspired by the divine”.

Rome is remarkably walkable, with history being the main protagonist, with countless monuments, piazzas, fountains and town squares acting as its central props. A few yards away, the Roman Forum delicately soars above the night sky. It was the centre of daily life. Today, what you see are fragments of the architectural past, nonetheless an imposing and evocative sight.

I headed next to the artistic Fontana di Trevi (Trevi Fountain) , Rome’s largest and most famous fountain. As night descended, I enjoyed the wonderful pockets of calm and strolled past the streets, where one can eat a delicious pressed sandwich of spicy grilled eggplant with fresh mozzarella and basil or a splendid gelato.

All things food

Food is cheap and you find many restaurants in the business districts, that cater to every kind of food connoisseur. Budget travellers should hunt for more bargain-friendly shops away from touristy zones. The amazing thing is, just like its innumerable water fountains that are “free” and “fit” to drink, much of Rome’s priceless ancient history also comes free, of course, barring a few exceptions like the Colosseum, Sistine Chapel, and The Pantheon.

Day two was spent discovering some of Rome’s great feats of urban engineering. The Pantheon is the single largest span dome in the world, located at the heart of Rome’s business district, Piazza Navona. It is a masterpiece of perfect proportion and is well preserved. A few streets away, stands the Altare della Patria, an unmissable white marble memorial to the first king of Italy, Vittorio Emmanuele II.

A bit of aimless wandering, and I discovered masterpieces from every architectural era, from Etruscan to Classical Rome, from Renaissance to Baroque. (A pair of comfy shoes is recommended to conquer its the cobble stones).

Sweeping vistas of Villa Borghese Park were soothing. It’s a beautiful garden of 80 hectares built by Cardinal Scipione Borghese. The park was one of the first of its kind in Rome, its formal gardens divided by avenues and graced with statues. The best way to explore the Borghese Gardens is to walk or rent a bike.

The food exemplifies the tastes of the people in that place, their tradition and culture. No wonder people walk kilometres to reach their favourite gelato shop. The restaurants favour noise and light, a touch of chaos and bold, lively flavours. Factors that pretty much define the character of this Eternal City.

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