The richly fragrant biriyani of Kayees, Pokkali rice from paddy fields near Vazhapuzha, Oysters harvested in the Munambam estuary and masala mussels at Vella Kanthari, Chef Binoy Xavier’s raw mango flavoured prawn moilee, pineapple rasam, and a coming up visit to spice farms in Peermade are inspiring Michelin Star Chef Hrishikesh Desai in his “mission” to find and source ingredients that will in his new food line- Modern British with a twist.
On a two week visit to Kerala, Desai along with Barney Cunliffe, MD Gilpin Hotel, who shares the chef’s drive for culinary re-engagement with ingredients, will interact with local chefs, homemakers, farmers, food experts and such in a curated visit guided by Binoy Xavier, Executive Chef, Malabar House. The two hotels come under the Relais & Chateux umbrella committed to preserving local heritage and environment.
“I was here as a teenager and the memories are still fresh; a visit to the temple, backwaters, drinking toddy and enjoying the days...it was heaven. This time inherent knowledge will go from here; the flavours of Kerala to the UK,” says Desai.
Impressed by the size of the oysters and its salty sweetness, as against a mineral taste he expected, the crustaceans have already stirred in Desai a recipe he intends to rustle up for Valentines. He will pair them with apple jelly and horseradish sorbet as a fitting amuse bouche , the natural sugars and acids of apples off setting the sweet saltiness of oysters and the extremely cold flavours of the sorbet.
The key elements of the celebrity chef’s creations are seen in a balance of flavours, textures, temperatures, presentation and now the authenticity of the ingredient, sourced from the grower.
His menu at Gilpin is all about local procurement, “within 50 miles.” The radius is now expanding to reach out to the original growers of spice, some in faraway Kerala.
Turmeric, a favourite spice, used in Pica Lilli, a classic British sauce, made with vinegar, turmeric, red chilli and sugar will be crafted into a newer version by him.
Pokkali rice and the nuanced flavours of the biriyani, his favourite being Nawabi Tarkari, a vegetarian Hyderabdi version, will be used in a de-constructed version of the Russian Salmon Coulibiac- a is brioche stuffed with salmon, quail eggs and rice. Pokkali will also be used to make the British staple kedgeree.
“ I plan to purée Swede, an English root vegetable that marries perfectly with spice, and temper it with biriyani masala. Mix it with pokkali rice, which is sticky and will plate perfectly,” he explains.
Hailing from Pune, Desai entered the world of cooking fascinated by the blow torch crystallising the sugars of the creme brulee into a crunchy patina. Now with over 15 years as a chef gathering experiences the world over, under masters of culinary art, and fetching himself scholarships and awards- Roux Scholarship(2009), Michelin Star(2015), a Telly personality, Desai has carved a place among the tallest names in the industry.
“There comes a stage in every chef’s life when you want to find out the root of the ingredient. I have come to the stage when I can choose the perfect egg, the butter, the right supplier,”says Desai whose food philosophy is fuelled by his Indian roots.
He conceptualises a dish, often slipping into a meditative state, cupping his face in his hands and looking into the distance. It is the ‘mindfulness’ when consciously the body gets aligned with the soul, a state in which he “feels the weight of the knife, the heat of the sizzle and its sound.”
Delving into such profound depths it is easy to understand his Michelin recognition. Desai says the recognition was a dream come true and retaining it year after year is his biggest challenge. “It is a massive pressure; we chefs live of the edge.” Recounting the day when the big announcement was to be made, and a day when his second daughter was born too, he says, “ My daughter was born, I was conferred the Michelin Star and I was dancing.”
“I have learnt in life a lesson. When you are on a high, always remember the people who brought you there,”he says, disclosing that after all the dishes that he conceptualises and prepares it is the fish and chips that he is fondest of, of course with a pint of beer.
