Charlee Mathlena
Aizawl, Mizoram
Charlee Mathlena (centre)
Textile revivalist Charlee Mathlena has done his bit to bring back the traditional looms and Mizo weaves, under his label Heritage Mizoram. Sharing local preferences in the capital city, he says, “El Shadai is my favourite shop in Aizawl, for their wide collection of menswear. For women, I adore Hannah Khiangte’s boutique for the cuts and colour palette, and Rags and Riches by Rinsangi for her clean and neat lines.” His personal tailors at Modern Suiting and Tailoring are behind almost all of his suits and jackets, but he suggests Muanpuii Chinzah, Tluangpuii Hmar and Magic Threads, all based in Aizawl, for women.
The famed Mizo textiles have select addresses too. “Since I have my own cottage industry set up, I hardly pick local textiles from anywhere else. But on some occasions I go to Zonunsang Handlooms.” When friends come to him for souvenir tips, he refers them to the Hnam Chhantu Pawl showroom for their cane and bamboo items. The NGO was set up for the upliftment of local handicrafts, and now retails the work of local artisans.
Heritage Mizoram
The best time to visit? He suggests we time it around two of Mizoram’s most famous festivals – Thalfavang Kut, the harvest festival in November, or Chapchar Kut in March, the Spring festival.
Get in touch Hannah Khiangte 084158 54607 Hnam Chhantu Pawl 9862227141 Zonunsang Handlooms A- 1,1Chhinga Veng, Aizawl
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Jenjum Gadi
Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh
Jenjum Gadi
Work keeps him in Delhi, but for fashion designer Jenjum Gadi, Itanagar is home. And whenever he visits, he has a list of must-shop places. The first, he says, is Takar Complex in Naharlagun, where he heads for his stock of the funkiest of everything, from shoes and bags to clothes. “Merchandise comes here straight from Bangkok, so we get the trendiest things, and you can get it for next to nothing. I call this kind of shopping ‘cheap thrills’,” he laughs. And when he wants something tailored, he insists that any tailor around the corner does a great job for men, but for women, he recommends a boutique called Khinom at Zero Point. To soak in some local flavour, Gadi suggests visiting a local market: his personal favourites are the Gandhi Market at Bank Tinali and Ganga Market. “Here you can see many varieties of local fruits, vegetables, local herbs, insects, and it’s a great way to meet the locals,” he adds. An extra tip? He suggests popping into any local barbershop, less for a haircut and more for the “to-die-for” head massage they give you right after. Since you’ve just missed the Ziro Festival in September which has some of the best performances in the country, try the Basar Confluence, a two-day festival held on November 4 and 5, that celebrates the unique art, culture and music of the tribes of the state.
Traditional fishing, Basar Confluence
The best souvenirs to take back from Arunachal Pradesh, according to Gadi, are the local textiles, and the Government Emporium near the police station at Itanagar is where you can pick them up. “Textiles and attires from the different tribes are available here, and since it is a government shop the prices are fixed, and tourists can’t be cheated,” he explains. “We Arunachali are also great with cane and bamboo products, and they make for great gifts. You can pick them up at every nook and corner,” he adds.
Get in touch Basar Confluence basarconfluence.org |
Gary Wallang
Shillong, Meghalaya
Gary Wallang
Stylist Gary Wallang lives in Mumbai these days, but he’s
got quite a few recommendations for those looking to visit his hometown of Shillong. Starting with, of course, fashion. “My go-to boutique in Shillong is Daniel Syiem,” says Wallang, adding that he works with a local textile called ‘Ryndia’, a type of silk made locally in Meghalaya. “For local shopping, Bara Bazaar or Iewduh is by far my favourite, a huge market sectioned off for spices, fruit, vegetables, meat and handloom. On weekends, they have a second-hand clothing market, which is a bargain paradise. They have huge piles where everything is ₹30; rummage through it all to find some great stuff! You’re also recycling, which is so important, says Wallang. “There is a small section where you can pick up beautiful muga silk shawls or Dhara, the local dress for special occasions.” A pro-tip from the local? “Tucked away in Happy Valley is a small market that I personally love as they have a couple of stores that sell amazing Mizo lungis, all hand woven or handloom for reasonable rates,” adds Wallang. A lesser known gem? Laitumkhrah in Shillong with numerous bars and cafes that have music/open mike nights all year, great for local talent.
Daniel Syiem's Ethnic Fashion House
The city has numerous souvenirs to pick up, like locally made smoking pipes, cane stools and wooden mortar and pestle. “But the best souvenir you can take back are the locally made pickles. From monkey chilli and bamboo shoot to meat pickles, they are always a welcome gift,” says Wallang.
Get in touch Daniel Syiem’s Ethnic Fashion House 9436111151 |
Reena Ahanthem
Imphal, Manipur
Reena Ahanthem wearing Rani Phi
One half of fashion label Deepankshi & Reena, designer Reena Ahanthem is based out of Delhi, but often visits Imphal, Manipur, where she grew up. Everytime she visits, there are a couple of places she never misses. Pink by Jayashree is her one-stop for everyday clothes and “beautiful blouses to wear with our ethnic wear i.e Phanek and Phi,” she says.
For her pick of eco-friendly indigenous handloom, she goes to Khumanthem, a young brand that employs local Manipuri women for weaving. But her biggest recommendation is what’s often referred to as the “kanjeevaram of Manipur”, Rani Phi. Created by Chungkham Rani Devi, who learnt to weave from her mother, as most Meitei women do, the original designs and weaves are extremely popular since the 1960s. Rani Devi passed away in 2012 but her children have kept the brand up and running, and today, for most Manipuri women, a piece or two of the Rani Phi is a must-have. Ahanthem also suggests stopping by designer Sailex Ngairangbam’s store.
From Khumanthem's new Autumn Winter 17/18 collection
If you’re looking for souvenirs to take back, Ahanthem says the best place to pick up Manipur’s weaves would be the Ima market, the world’s only all-women run marketplace, and if you’re looking for gifts to take back, she recommends handmade soaps from a local brand called Sahi.
Get in touch Rani Phi, 09856153265 Sailex, 08414992269 Khumanthem, 7085649113 Pink by Jayshree 08974027097 Sahi Naturals 08731931318 |
Medha Saikia
Guwahati, Assam
Medha Saikia
Founder and president of the Northeast India Fashion and Design Council, Medha Saikia is definitely the go-to person for inside info on Guwahati. To pick up traditional attire, Saikia trusts Doyna by Arita Kashyap and Aadrika by Chinmoyee Pujari, and for local textiles she heads to Fabric Plus and Ethnicity by Kunal Kaushik. If you’re feeling like going an extra mile though, she recommends heading to AAGOR by The ANTS, an NGO in Chirang District. “For my tribal accessories I depend on jewellery designer Yana Ngoba Chakpu of Arunachal Pradesh as she collects the orders and delivers too,” says Saikia. Assamese craftspeople whose work Saikia personally loves include Nar Mohan Das of Bijay Nagar, for his authentic golden muga and Eri silk, and Naturally Anuradha for her organic handloom Eri, Muga and Mulberry saris and Mekhela Sador. If you’re looking for souvenirs, she suggests Jagaran by Artfed, a one-stop for local handicrafts. Her personal recommendations are a wooden one horn rhino and a Xorai, the traditional Assamese offering tray made of bell metal.
Get in touch Fabric Plus, Dilip Baruah- 09859910601. Aagor, Rahimol Narzery- 09613175570. Naturally Anuradha, Anuradha Kuli- 09864075276; Ethnicity, Kunal Kaushik- 09707754454 |
Pradyot Bikram Manikya Deb Burman
Tripura
Pradyot Bikram Manikya Deb Burman
As the head of the erstwhile Royal House of Tripura, the best person to ask for insight into the state is Deb Burman. “We are not just a state that came about after Independence, we are a civilisation,” he proclaims. To make the most of your trip start with the palaces. “Ujjayanta Palace is set among Mughal gardens and is the landmark of the city,” he says, adding, “The Neermahal summer palace, that sits pretty in the middle of Lake Rudrasagar, is another delight for its Hindu and Islam-inspired architectural flair. By next year, I plan to convert the Malancha Niwas Palace into a hotel.” Temples like Sundari temple and the many lakes dotting the city are also a must-see, he adds. “As a foodie, I recommend trying our simple but flavourful food -- wahan mosdeng, a delicate pork salad, and Tokhan, a chicken curry paired with sticky rice. Sometimes a good meal is all that one needs for a good life,” he quips. If you’re looking at taking home a bit of Tripura, he recommends the state’s exquisite bamboo products. “Take back baskets, trays and furniture made of bamboo, if you have the space. Else, get them to ship home. Do pick up some woven Tripuri textiles like Rida or a Rwgnai, a traditional wrap-around,” he signs off.
(Text by: Hoihnu Hauzel)
Carol Humtsoe
Dimapur, Nagaland
Carol Humtsoe
Model Carol Humtsoe shuttles between Delhi and Mumbai for work, but still swears by shopping in Dimapur. “I think my best finds have been from the local thrift stores here,” says Humtsoe. “There are two markets, especially, where you get great thrift clothes — New Market and Super Market in Dimapur. You will find a variety of styles that are not generic, and a lot of vintage clothes, too.” Local artisan brands she recommends include Windfall by Bambi K, Liying, and The Connect Studio, who do customised wear, and Aben Jewellery, which makes beautiful fusion accessories. The best souvenir according to her are the Nungshiba dolls made by Zuboni Humtsoe and her team of girls at Precious MeLove, that are really beautiful. One event to mark on your calendar when you’re planning your trip, according to Humtsoe, is Aoleang – the Konyak’s spring festival in Mon, that happens in the first week of April each year. It showcases the cultural heritage, music and dance of the district.
Esther Jamir
Dimapur, Nagaland
Esther Jamir
“Super Market Dimapur is a great place to buy handicrafts, handloom products, ethnic garments, shawls, accessories an more,” says model Esther Jamir, adding that the Weekly Wednesday market here is especially great for organic produce and all kinds of local foods/cuisines. Other local entrepreneurs whose work she recommends include men’s leather footwear maker Kaka Sumi, tribal and contemporary handmade jewellery from Runway Nagaland, basket weaver Vikili Hollohon who custom-makes everything from laptop cases to picnic baskets on order, and Leejen, which specialises in fabrics with Naga motifs to make everything from clothing to home decor. She also recommends the Kohima-based designer Keds Krome, whose Naga “modern-ethnic” wear and handmade tribal accessories can be customised to taste.
Kaka Sumi's leather shoes
Amenla, Sungdi and Tiarenla
Nagaland
Amenla, Sungdi and Tiarenla are pretty much the curators of cool from the Northeast. The three best friends are founders of the website rootsandleisure.com , an online portal that seeks to highlight cultures through locals and also retails merchandise from local creators and entrepreneurs. While their website is a treasure trove of information, they highlight for us a few insights from their hometown of Dimapur. If you’re shopping around here, the team recommends heading to Kharu Design, run by Menuolhoulie Kire, whose bamboo creations blend a contemporary aesthetic with heritage designs. For clothes, they pick a local brand called The Daughters, that makes unusual designs at affordable rates (starting from ₹1,800). They also recommend heading to Kohima-based hair stylist Auden Lama for on-trend colouring that’s super affordable (starting from ₹3,000 for mid-length).
Kharu Design
Get in touch Windfall by Bambi K 09436011203, Liying clothing 08974200747, Keds Krome 9615245995, Leejen leejen.asen@facebook.com , Kaka Sumi 08732824441, Runway Nagaland 7085051325, Vikili Hollohon 08132920862, Kharu Design 9774480279, The Daughters facebook.com/thedaughters.nld , Auden Lama instagram.com/audenlama/ Precious MeLove 918794122629 |
