The popularity of rustic flavours

Weekend food festival at The Thangam Grand offers a wide range of heirloom recipes from the kitchens of Usilampatti

May 17, 2018 04:17 pm | Updated 06:26 pm IST - MADURAI:

 A variety spread

A variety spread

Usilampatti reminds us of semi-arid landscape, cheerful people and Bharathiraja movies. And above all the lip-smacking food! The small hamlet is known for unique heirloom recipes and spicy non-vegetarian curries. Predominantly a meat-eating pocket, it boasts of a wide range of mutton and country chicken dishes. For the second successive year, The Thangam Grand hotel in Madurai is hosting 'Usilampatti Kodai Kondattam'. The signature food festival features over 10 varieties of meat preparations apart from a broad range of vegetarian recipes, starters and desserts. The festival attempts to bring the authentic taste and flavour through standardised recipes.

“The idea is to make people appreciate the characteristic taste of Usilampatti style of cooking. A typical village cooking has certain intricacies in the methods. There's no written formula but it's an art that's passed on and is mastered only through practice,” says Ramesh R., the hotel’s director. “Last year’s success prompted us to repeat the festival with some more interesting items this time.”

Nattukozhi Kozhambu, Kari choru, Elumbu sundal kozhambu and gadi chops are some of the star items included in the buffet. “The masalas needed for the recipes are hand-pounded at home. I am particular about the proportion of spices that go into the dishes in order to maintain the taste and consistency of every item,” says Durga Ramesh, who has designed the menu. “I learnt the recipes from my mother-in-law. For instance, the Elumbu sundal Kozhambu is something typical of Usilampatti. Goat bones are cooked with boiled black channa and the gravy is a mildly-spicy stew that goes perfectly with appams and dosas. The tempering is mild to retain the flavour of goat bones.”

Similarly, dry fish cooked with cow peas or dried lima beans ( karuvadu thattapayir/mochai kozhambu ) and Manjal seeragam kozhambu are the other signature recipes of Usilampatti that find place in the festival. “We have put together a combination of recipes to keep a balanced spread. Some curries are spicy and thick while others are watery and bland. It's a balanced spread. Take the Manjal Seeragam Kozhambu – it's more like a mutton soup in which turmeric and cumin are the only spices. It goes well with idlis or idiyappams.”

For fish lovers, the piquant and tangy veral meen kozhambu and red snapper fry come as irresistible options. “The fish gravy from Usilampatti is extremely hot with lots of red chillies. We generally avoid adding diluted coconut milk which douses the spice levels,” says Durga.

The vegetarians needn't feel left out as the spread offers some interesting options like the Vendhaya kali, kathrikkai peratal and Urulai pattani paakootu . “The paalkari or paalkootu is a rich thick gravy made with vegetables cooked in coconut milk. Sometimes, cashew paste is also added to thicken the consistency. Likewise, vazhaipoo vadai and vendakka pulikozhambu reflect the flavour of the countryside,” says Ramesh.

Among the desserts are native sweets like ellu urundai, athirasam, jeerani mittai and paal kozhukattai . “Even the ice cream is custom-made to lost flavours like semiya ice, paal and kuchi ice.”

The festival is only on weekends till May 27, from 7 pm to 11 pm. On Saturdays, lunch buffet is also available from 12 pm to 3 pm.

FROM THE COUNTRYSIDE

@ City View rooftop restaurant, The Thangam Grand, No:48, Bypass Road, Kalavasal

HIT: Non-vegetarian curries

MISS: Cramped seating.

MEAL FOR ONE: Rs. 750 plus Taxes

TEL: 8220933377

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