The culture of food

Celebrity chef Ranveer Brar says that understanding our cuisine and analysing its roots forms an important part of culinary appreciation

April 05, 2017 03:36 pm | Updated 05:21 pm IST

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Life is quite hectic for Ranveer Brar at the moment. He has opened restaurants in Canada and Mumbai, curated restaurant menus across multiple Indian cities and been associated with Mercedes-Benz as part of their Luxe Drive series of events across the country, for which he was in Bengaluru recently. He is a popular face on television too, and is gearing up to head to Turkey for the third season of his show Ranveer On The Road .

“There is a lot going on,” says the 39-year-old from Lucknow. “However, I am getting some great opportunities to meet and interact with people interested in food. Among all the restaurants I am working with, I am quite excited about Alila in Bisangarh, which upholds the farm-to-table concept for the right reasons.” Though he has worked with the cuisines of the world, Brar admits that his heart “will always beat a little extra for Lucknawi food.” Which is only right considering his initiation into the culinary arts began with his fascination for the kebab vendors on the streets of the city. Another aspect of food he considers important is its connection with culture. “Food is an extension of culture. Any dish is an extension of the cuisine it represents. When I look at either of them in isolation, a dish without a message or a culture without food, the picture doesn’t seem complete,” he says.

“When I was in Kerala a couple of years ago, I was invited to lunch with a Syrian Christian family. They treated me to this amazing kappa meen curry (boiled tapioca served with spicy fish curry). The host’s sister was kind enough to do a demo for me, and let me cook too. From the unique style of cutting the kappa, to stewing the fish in spices, each aspect of this humble dish was interesting. The best part, the fish curry tastes even better the next day, as the kudampuli and other spices get absorbed better into the fish. This dish is close to any Syrian Christian’s culinary heart, and won mine too.”

Brar believes that food appreciation in the country is seeing a change for the better. “Food has occupied a genuine space in people’s lives, in India and abroad. Cooking at home and entertaining people with home-cooked food has become a much-enjoyed activity instead of dining out. In the restaurant space, employing fermentation techniques is a big thing. There is also a focus on rediscovering forgotten cuisines and a worldwide shift towards vegetarian food,” he says, adding that India is seeing a healthy shift towards local cuisine. “We’re looking at who we are and what we cook, rather than just looking Westward. There is a marked recognition and appreciation for regional cuisine instead of simply bracketing them into zones as was the case earlier.”

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