The friendly stewardess arrives with a steamer holding within its depths five light-as-cloud dimsums. There’s a little bowl of chilli soy dipping sauce as well, and even before the stewardess has turned away from the table, my dinner partner and I reach for the Xiao Long Bao.
As soon as I pop the first dimsum into my mouth, I realise it is a mistake. The paper-thin wrapping holds a medley of flavourful chicken, suspended in a light broth that scalds my tongue in a hot, flavoursome flood. I’m hooked by the unusual juxtaposition of bao and broth, all laced with subtle notes of onion and garlic.
Brand new
Newly-opened Nasi and Mee Asian Canteen in Nungambakkam has been creating waves in the city’s culinary circles, with its wide range of fairly-authentic Malaysian and Singapore street-style food. Initially set up in Bengaluru, the eatery decided to throw open its doors in the city February, with a menu specially created by restaurateur Ravi Nahappan.
The restaurant in Chennai boasts funky murals, industrial chic lights and roughly-polished wooden tables, and has an open, cheerful canteen vibe to it, amplified by the friendly staff who busily hustle between tables in bright sneakers, balancing platters of steaming hot food.
For starters
I’m torn between ordering a Tom Kha soup (rich with coconut milk broth) or a chicken with winter melon in a clear broth, and finally opt for the latter, since it’s more unusual for Chennai, not to mention a lighter start to what promises to be an extravagant meal. With shiitake, juicy chunks of chicken and pak choy, the soup is packed with flavour and is an ideal precursor to the main course: classic Nasi Goreng and Char Khway Teow, with a serving of tenderloin in black bean sauce.
Taste of memory
Nasi Goreng has been a personal favourite ever since I first had it on a trip to Bali. An addictive blend of rice, with chillies, shrimp paste and crisply-fried shallots, the Indonesian version is fundamentally the same as the Malaysian one. However, my Bali Goreng had one subtle difference – the addition of kecap manis, a sweet syrupy soy sauce made from palm sugar.
Perhaps, that is why I have never managed to find the same flavour at restaurants in the city, despite ordering the dish multiple times. However, the version served at Nasi and Mee was just as satisfying as the first time I had it in rain-soaked Bali all those years ago, even if the ingredients might not have been exactly the same.
Especially, since it was served with a side of smoky chicken satay, prawn crackers and dollop of spicy sambal.
The Char Khway Teow — flat noodles tossed in soy and chilli with vegetables and chicken — paled in comparison to the Nasi Goreng; perhaps the latter’s more robust and complex flavours held a better appeal to my palate. Tying up all the Asian flavours was a succulent stir-fried beef tenderloin in black bean sauce.
I’m full to the gills, but give in to temptation and help myself to another serving of the Nasi Goreng and spicy sambal. And as I savour the nutty, garlicky rice one more time, I realise I’ve found my new favourite Asian eatery in town.
For dessert, try their Ais Kacang or bean ice, a chef’s special. You could also choose from the chocolate banana spring rolls or Red Ruby, which has mock pomegranate on ice and coconut milk. A sweet finish to a great meal.
- @ Khader Nawaz Khan Road, Nungambakkam
- Hits: Nasi Goreng and Xiao Long Bao
- Miss: Char Khway Teow
- Meal for two: ₹1,500
- 48548222
