Between the months of March and May, snails are easily available in all markets in Nagaland. The hill states of the north-east are known for their terrace farming practices. In the off-season, after harvest and shortly before sowing of new crops, farmers wade through water-logged fields harvesting snails. It’s an incredible example of how people in Nagaland and elsewhere in the north-east make the best use of the land they have.
Snail meat is high in protein, has a mild and sweet freshwater shellfish taste, and a mushroom-like meaty texture. It is these properties that make it a delicacy in French and other European cuisines.
Wash the snails in cold water a few times, as they can be muddy. Then, let it sit in water for five minutes. Whole snails will poach within five to seven minutes. Many times, snails are added at the end of a local pork or chicken preparation. However, one great way to use them is with perilla seeds. Perilla seeds are oil seeds common to the northeast and also quite common in Korean and Japanese cuisine. They are similar to sesame seeds. Snails are cooked with salt in water, and when done, tossed in perilla seeds butter. This preparation is known as Nula Ga by the Sema people of Nagaland.
The meat is attached to the shell at the tail. Hold the tail end of the shell, and in a kissing fashion, suck it to dislodge the meat. Turn it around and remove the meat from the opening either with an implement or a quick, jolting inhale with your mouth.
Bigger ones are easier to consume and snails are usually alive, in their shell, when purchased. You can tell they are fresh when they smell like fresh water and green grass.
Aditya Raghavan is a dairy consultant who co-runs The Danda Food Project with Anandita Kamani, in which they curate fine dining food experiences in Khar, Mumbai.
