On Saturday, two Delhi-based chefs, Ashay Dhopatkar and Neha Lakhani, who call themselves the ‘Troublesome Duo’ will take over Magazine Street Kitchen at Reay Road for an eleven-course modern European pop-up meal. “We are big pranksters and love to whip up offbeat, path-breaking recipes,” the 32-year-old Dhopatkar tells us. He met his partner-in-crime, 31-year-old Lakhani, in 2015 at a pastry demonstration in Delhi. “Just before the event, she had cut her finger and there was no first aid. I jumped in to help her set-up makeshift cake stands as some of her equipment had not arrived. I got to eat her cake too,” he laughs. Lakhani later visited his kitchen, and the two were appreciative of each other’s talent. “Though Ashay and I are like yin and yang in the kitchen. Sugar and salt!” says Lakhani.
Although Dhopatkar always wanted to be a chef, he’s given his medical entrance examination and passed it too. But that was, he says, “Just to prove to my parents that I could. I didn’t take up the course, and moved [instead] to Goa to pursue hotel management.” He’s also graduated with an MBA from University of Wales and a culinary arts course from Hammersmith and West, London. Luckily, his career landed him at several restaurants run by Michelin star chefs, including Herbert Berger, Mark Hix and Gordon Ramsay.
Lakhani on the other hand, joined Le Cordon Bleu, Canada, after she reached a stagnating point in her job at a garment export company. She later joined ITC Maurya in Delhi as a kitchen executive chef, and also trained under pastry stars like Pierrick Boyer and Peter Yuan.
For their Mumbai meal, the duo has planned a meal with deep European influences. “Our food is European, but with an amalgamation of global flavours. For example, we do a hedgerow garlic dumplings with wasabi mayo. In this dish, the hedgerow is British, mayonnaise is French and wasabi is Japanese,” says Lakhani, who in the past has also consulted at Le Bistro Du Parc, Noida.
When queried on the use of molecular gastronomy, Dhopatkar says, “[Using it] helps enhance the experience by assisting in achieving impossible textures and flavour combinations. But it shouldn’t be used as a sheer gimmick.”
For their Mumbai pop-up, their menu includes interesting dishes, including whipped cauliflower — cauliflower espuma (foam) with candied walnuts, pistachio crumb and white truffle oil — saffron risotto with prawns and chorizo with parmesan air, and a salted caramel Magnum bar. “We attempt to turn simple, everyday ingredients into a refined avatar, without adding too many flavours. Most of our dishes are inspired by our experiences, travels and mother nature,” he says.
To book the eleven-course tasting menu (₹4,200 for vegetarians and ₹4,700 for non-vegetarians) by the Troublesome Duo at Magazine Street Kitchen at 7.30 p.m. on February 18, see insider.in
