The weaver’s song

Paheli by Weave in India showcases a curated collection of the country’s different weaving traditions

March 22, 2018 05:31 pm | Updated 05:32 pm IST

Weave in India’s new capsule collection is as diverse as the colours of the rainbow. Titled Paheli, the curated collection does not just focus on one theme or colour, but on different weaves. “Each weaver has his own style and ethnicity. He can weave a couple of different styles,” explains Mandira Bansal, who started Weave in India in February 2017. “This collection includes Benarasis ( kimkhab , brocade, kadhwa ,) Patan patolas, bandhinis, Chanderi, linen, Gadhwals, real zari muslins, Kanjeevarams, handwoven silk, Paithani and jamdani,” says Bansal, as she opens up a linen sari in seafoam green. The other sari, in glossy silver, is a complete contrast. “This is made of real silver,” she says, adding, “brides-to-be often prefer something like this.” The collection also comprises handwoven pure silk lehenga panels in pink, red, royal purple, peach and in pastels.

Not just saris, Bansal also has an array of innovatively designed blouses. What first catches the eye when you enter the store is an elaborate blouse made of pearls encased in gold threads. Then there is another in jute with mirror work, and a full sleeved one with 70s style frills, traditional zardozi ones, and regal jackets with hand embroidery. “A lot of clients who buy from us also want us to style them,” she says.

In addition to its Spring Summer and Autumn Winter collections, Weave in India also comes up with capsules. “We are out with our capsules four times a month. We go to Bengaluru, Hyderabad, Pune, Nagpur, Raipur, Kolkata, Coimbatore, Mumbai, Ahmedabad and Dubai,” says Bansal. Paheli has around 300 saris and garments, including menswear. “The men’s collection is a playground of textiles. It is made of handwoven fabrics, mostly Chanderi. We’ve created intricate surface textures such as appliqué and cut work. For the men who want something a little bit out of the ordinary,” says Bansal. There are bandhgalas, draped kurtas, printed pants, breeches. The lotus is a recurring theme in most of Weave in India’s creations. You’ll also find different forms of birds and floral motifs.

“Our weavers are from Varanasi, Ahmedabad, Kanchipuram, Patan, interiors of Kolkata and Paithan. The time taken for weaving is anywhere between 15 days to three months. These Patan patola saris take four to six months and they have GI certificate,” adds Bansal. The idea is to do something fresh every season. Paheli is the label’s first concrete collection for a look book. It captures 12-15 styles and showcases the various ways these weaves can be styled and worn.

( Weave in India will showcase Paheli at a pop-up on March 23 and 24 at its flagship store at 29 Chitharanjan Road, Alwarpet.)

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