Pitti Uomo, the playground of the modern, sharply dressed male, saw about 40,000 attendants last month, when I joined a small group of designers, buyers, bloggers and top magazine editors headed there from India. After all, the four-day fair in Florence is currently the most influential menswear trade show in this format.
Our hosts, TrendLAB (a fashion forecasting company) had booked us into the beautifully quaint Hotel Rivoli and armed me with a VIP access to private shows by the likes of Paul Smith and new talent Tim Coppens. At Fortezza da Basso (the trade center where the bi-annual show takes place) the red-carpet atmosphere was palpable. The celebrities at Pitti are the style bloggers and fashion influencers, so whether you are immaculately dressed or in an ensemble from outer space, you are guaranteed some well-deserved attention. No wonder then, that with the fluctuating weather - a mix of hail, rain and periodic sunshine - the infamous ‘Pitti peacocks’ rose to the occasion with a dizzy mix of looks.
Layering some green
I spotted quirky layering through military overcoats, neon suits, the neutral tones of tweed and cashmere and lots of double-breasted goodness. Herringbone-woven regalia was a staple for the Italian dandy. Accessories are key to peacocking, and here, ruffled feather lapel pins, vintage pocket watches and handcrafted pocket squares were used as worthy accoutrements. The visitors whipped out vividly printed scarves, oversized animal-inspired metal brooches and unique boaters to complete each carefully constructed ensemble. As for the colour palette, it was diverse but with a healthy serving of greens and military shades. No surprise why Pantone named Greenery their colour of 2017!
Follow the embroidered shoe
Creativity, inspired by the weather, came in all shapes and sizes. I spotted hoodies mixed with blazers and unstructured trousers for a distinctive new look. Denim came to the rescue for the style conscious, and didn’t seem out of place in a city known for its three-piece suits. Camouflaged jackets stood out, but it was the cashmere overcoats with angled fleece accents that we were all eyeing. That and the thread-embroidered shoes! I later found them in the store windows of Scarpe di Bianco.
Eye on the pants
Top designers pulled out all the stops to become showmen. Special guest Paul Smith brought out Keep-Dry Parkas alongside a range of formal suits, with models using dance and exercise routines to highlight the fluidity of an outfit. Smith used vermillion to advantage, and it went down well with the dapper dons of 2017. Hot shot designer Tim Coppens displayed a sporty chic line that managed to be both laidback and formal, with racing stripes and graphics. And the futuristic Cottweiler, inspired by holistic approaches to sport aftercare, put to use manufacturing techniques and fabrics that have a therapeutic effect on the human body. Tommy Hilfiger, making his debut at Pitti, targeted the millennials with a line inspired by Pop Culture. A ‘digital showroom’ was therefore inevitable, with touchscreen-interfaces, as was an Insta-famous audience that included Jude Law’s son, Rafferty. Tommy went for the relaxed silhouette, with roomy high-waist trousers. Designer Brunello Cucinelli, on the other hand, also known for his trousers with fuller proportions, showed pants at Pitti with a low-waist and high hem. “Trousers must change…You can’t wear last year’s trousers,” he was reported saying in a New York Times report on Pitti Uomo. Also, a Japanese group of trouser specialists stood out for their unique silhouettes, clean construction and exquisite quality. They belonged to the global selection. I also encountered homegrown craftsmen who created the cleanest handmade white gold cufflinks and a group that crafted the snazziest suspenders.
After hours
Apart from the main event, there’s a wide sampling of art and culture to be had; from silver-bodied Marilyn Monroe inspired fans, to automated dancing pompoms coupled with multi-coloured rhythmic gloves. This was also reflected in the individual displays by the various fashion houses. Menswear giant Ermenegildo Zegna chose to decorate their winter wear displays with synthetic snowfall, while Marzoni recreated the ultimate luxury experience with glimpses of royal purple swatches and butlers serving champagne to the attendees.
Sandeep Gonsalves is founder of luxury clothing brand SS Homme
