Black defines Ashish Soni’s sensibilities. He enjoys sporting his classy tuxedos, whether he walks the ramp or throws parties for his close circle of friends and colleagues in the fashion fraternity. Models draped in black tops and polyester ‘bandgalas’ suits designed by him can be seen on Instagram. And black is the dominant colour in his stores.
With the theme of ‘Celebrating Milestones’ given to him by the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), the couturier opted for this colour to showcase his artistic vision. In “All Black Everything”, Soni has created approximately 40 outfits in the same colour and that too for the second day of AIFW. “Who says I haven’t used colours? I have used all the seven colours. Black is made by mixing violet indigo, green, white... This is the way to sum up my journey. From childhood to now I have seen a number of colourful things. I am only now trying to sum them up,” says Soni.
Excerpts:
On the show reflecting the kind of clothes he made right from his struggling days at Lajpat Nagar to finally opening up his dream designer’s store at the posh Defence Colony recently
(Laughs) Unfortunately I am not a filmmaker; you cannot reflect so much. Well what I made in 1990s is not relevant now. But the fabrics which I had used in the 1980s and ’90s have been reused in a contemporary way.
I have not mounted a show which is just based on a trend or season. I have created something that reflects my signature style. When the FDCI gave us theme of Celebrating Milestones, it had to be a collection of evening, bridal or couture clothes. For me, the key decision was that I would do a full evening wear collection. In my earlier shows, I have done day wear.
On shunning colourful fabrics
I am not known for colours anyway. So I have attempted something which I have never done. In my earlier shows, I have done either black and white or black mixed with white collection. And also print and full white collection. Something which I have never attempted earlier is a full black collection. Black is important for me as it probes the depth and versatility of a restricted palette. At first glance, it may be viewed as limiting. Absence of colour challenges this notion.
Normally people think it is easy to do a full black show. Not true. To have 30 to 40 garments in one colour means that each look has to be exceptional, different and interesting. Otherwise showcasing them will be of no consequence. So I have worked on each individual look. I have tried to highlight the simplicity of the colour by using over 30 different textured black fabrics so that nothing appears flat and boring.
On black being sought after by Western designers
Black remained extraordinarily popular in Western dresses until the 1960s. It was utilised frequently by the couturiers of the time, first by Dior, later by Givenchy and Balenciaga. Coco Chanel, inventor of the now-iconic little black dress, was a famous lover of the colour. I have done those kind of things.
On how each look has been created to make sure that every outfit has its own characteristic
Each fabric has either been hand-textured, embroidered or tone-engineered jacquards on the fabric. This has its own beauty. No matter what I do with it, the beauty of the outfit gets enhanced because the fabric is magnificent. I enjoyed the journey of creating each piece. But it required great effort. There are 40 outfits and I have probably used 37 different fabrics, each more special than the other. It took me six months just to shortlist the fabrics. I have used traditional techniques such as aari and zardozi embroidery on contemporary textiles.
On whether outfits will be androgynous
Androgynous is easy, but to balance menswear with women’s styling is very difficult. I have done a series of tuxedo dresses. Now tuxedo is a male garment. Of course there are tuxedos for women also. To convert menswear into women’s garments was a challenge, but I have done it to make interesting viewing for all those who come to my show.
On the technical process of converting menswear into womenswear
There is no technical process as such but more of an ideation in my head and it was a transfer of intellect where the aim was to create sharp silhouette dresses with the men’s tuxedo as inspiration.
Women’s pant suits have been done as inspired dinner jackets with the trouser waist superimposed at the hips and the bottom almost as flared as a trouser from 1950s. Sari jumpsuit is the new invention I have created. Ladies will be delighted to find black jumpsuits to which I have added sari like pallas which can be worn on almost any occasion.
Apart from tuxedo dresses, I have created sari jumpsuits. These are black jumpsuits to which I have added sari elements like pallas which can be worn on almost any occasion.
On fashion pundits scrutinising his collection layer by layer
I did not take the easy route, because easy is boring. After 25 years I get bored very easily. To keep myself focused I have to challenge myself. Life is meaningless without raising the bar. I don’t mind taking risks after two decades. I am a kind of person who takes criticism positively in my stride.
On being in sync with a new generation
Eventually it is important to relate to the young generation. I am trying to portray as much of me as a brand and a person through my work.
All for athleisure
Catering to modern Indian women, Delhi-based designer Nida Mahmood made an effort to popularise outfits inspired by gym clothes in her show at the ongoing AIFW. Her collection was celebration of India and its women.
The sustainable athleisure range showcased the running sari, which was made in a way that it is suitable for women of all shapes, sizes and sensibilities.
Speaking abouther collection, Nida said: “The main idea behind creating this range was that in our country we don’t think about fitness and exercise like in most European countries where they understand the value of fitness. Plus sized women want to make an effort to go to gym but are daunted by small sized clothes. International brands don’t go in for specific body types. These women feel embarrassed and shy of wearing gym clothes. I understand that they are uncomfortable wearing them in public. So the idea was to make comfortable clothes for large sized women who want to stay fit. My clothes have been tailor-made for all body types.”
Pointing out that a large population of our country wants to wear saris, Nida said: “Most women feel awkward wearing sportswear. So we came with running saris which has been created in a way that women can run in them in events like Pinkathon.”
This collection was a collaboration between Nida and active lifestyle brand Deivee founded by Milind Soman.
