Just a few years ago, if you would have said Kunbi sari to anyone, they would probably have looked puzzled, even within the home state of Goa where this red checkered wonder spools out from.
But today this Goan adivasi sari, which derives its name from the tribe called the Kunbi, is a prized collector’s item among handloom lovers. It has also helped that there has been a renewed interest in the country over the last few years in learning about and wanting to wear and celebrate the handloom sari in India in all its rich variety.
The credit for the Kunbi’s revival goes largely to history professor Rohit Phalgaonkar, who is also a part of Goa government’s Conservation Committee for Archaeology and Museums. While working on his PhD in art history, he would go on-site visits to all the tribal pockets of Goa along with Vinayak Khedekar, a senior folklorist of Goa. Together, they have been able to bring this bright red sari with its characteristic solid border back to life. What started as an interest in trying to rekindle a dying folk dance form also resulted in a fresh look at the tribal sari that the women wore for the dance.
“We realised that tribal folk dances in the region were not being performed and so were slowly dying out. We wanted to encourage these dances on a commercial platform, but they did not have their traditional drape! Hence we decided to get a model of saris done for them which would be economical. Hence we decided to go for power loom saris and terrycot was used for durability. This was somewhere in 2007,” recalls Phalgaonkar on his association with the Kunbi sari.
Worn high up like a pleated skirt with the sari wrapped and knotted over the shoulder by the adivasi women, the sari or “kapod” also came in various shades and sizes of checks depending on the region, the sub-communities, and the women wearing it.
Soon he began collecting samples from the tribal communities -- some were in tatters, others were embedded in quilts! Then began the tedious journey of trying to document and revive it in as close to original form. He wanted to replicate the same characteristic patterns and designs. Unfortunately, Goa’s rich handloom past had also dwindled down so much that they couldn’t find anyone who could weave the Kunbi. Right now they are being hand woven in Tamil Nadu and Karnataka. He has managed to revive about 15 varieties and patterns over the last 10 years. Each is named after the community and the region in Goa from where it was traced. Phalgaonkar terms this as a historic comeback for the heritage weave.
Ithy-ADee, a handloom company started by Bengaluru-based Devika Ramarathnam as part of a CSR project of e2e People Practices, hopes to motivate people to adopt handlooms in their daily lives, starting with the sari. Ithy-Adee will host a curated event and talk on “Reviving the Kunbi sari” by Rohit Phalgaonkar in Bengaluru. You can listen to him describe his journey that led to the trials, tribulations and triumph of reviving this weave. He currently teaches at PWHSS in Mapusa, Goa, and has been constantly contributing to a revitalised interest within the State about its culture and heritage.
The event is at Tharangini, The Design Studio, 12th Main Sadashivnagar, adjoining Sankey Tank on March 24, 12.15 p.m. onwards. Kunbi saris will be on display and sale at the venue. For details call 9845038821 or email Ithyadee@gmail.com
