Rise of gender-fluid fashion

Petr Nitka and Anjali Lama, tell us how they have been able to erase the gender binary on the ramp

January 19, 2017 01:05 am | Updated 01:06 am IST

STRIDING AHEAD Petr Nitka on the runway

STRIDING AHEAD Petr Nitka on the runway

A ndrogynous dressing is now the buzzword in fashion circles. It is, however, not by an stretch of imagination a new phenomenon if one goes deep into the history of fashion. After all, legendary French designer Yves Saint Laurent first broke gender stereotypes when he launched tuxedos for women in the 1960s and The Beatles embraced gender-fluid style in the 1970s.

Now the spotlight is on gender neutral models – who due to fulfilling the requirement of androgynous clothing are pushing the envelope for designers who feel that making clothes for one gender only is boring and repetitive. It might be early days but 2017 is rocking for Petr Nitka, a Czech model, who is now gearing up to weave his magic on the ramp at the Lakme Fashion Week next month. “Gender neutral references in art and culture have always been prevalent and adored in India. It will be interesting to see how gender neutral fashion has evolved in the present day,” says Petr.

Last year, Petr has had fantastic experiences as the first gender neutral model at South African Fashion Week. This first Czechoslovakian androgynous model is in sync with new age designers who are breaking societal stereotypes when it comes to exhibiting their fashion sensibilities. And, in a way, he is accommodating the LGBT community’s concerns and voicing their right to be accepted in mainstream.

Excerpts from an interview:

How did you get into fashion? Tell us about you growing up days in Czechoslovakia and the socio-political influences

I grew up in Ostrava, Czech Republic. My childhood days were different for my unusual interests in fashion and make-up. However, my mother has always been supportive. During my early twenties when I went to Australia for higher studies, I fortunately met photographer Bharathan Gangatheran in Perth and did a photo shoot. These images got published in a leading magazine. Seeing these images was the moment of truth for me where I realised that I am not a typical model and am closer to a gender-neutral model. The most interesting aspect of being the gender-neutral model was that my profound love for fashion and make-up was also going to be satiated.

When did you discover that there is scope for gender neutral models. Has the demand for gender neutral models risen because of androgynous clothing?

I think I have not had any other option. I have always been skinny and my face has feminine features. I could not become a normal model. My look and mind are different, and this is the reason I am not a typical model. Androgynous clothing helps me to present myself as gender neutral, but we need to realise that Andreja Pejic used to be first androgynous model before her transformation and she did a big revolution in the world in this kind of fashion.

Do you think recognition of gender neutral models in fashion weeks will help in highlighting the cause of LGBT community.

I believe so. I am receiving very positive vibes and messages from the Indian LGBT people. I was extremely happy when I got know I was the first gender neutral model in India to walk at the Lakme Fashion Week. It only depicts that India is now becoming more broad minded and inclusive to gays and transsexuals.

Tell us about your experience of working with designers and choreographers. What are their expectations from you on the ramp in terms of walk, gait and expression.

Of late, I have realised that modelling for menswear is much easier. Reason being there is not much of importance given to expression whereas women on the other hand must keep in mind various things while they are walking on the ramp. But I like it. It is quite an adventure. Designers and choreographers always expect me to walk on high heels perfectly. And to be honest – it was the most difficult thing to learn.

Does sexual orientation of a model become an obstacle in getting work in countries there are regressive views and discrimination against the LGBT community? Please share your experiences.

Till September 2015, I worked without the support of an agency or manager as it was difficult to acquire one as a gender-neutral model.

I instead decided to continue working with Bharathan Gangatheran who not only discovered me but also offered to be my agent. I have recently signed a contract with his agency, Indi Models. The first time I walked as a gender-neutral model was in Africa at the Cape Town Fashion Week in July.

After Cape Town, my next assignment was in Slovakia. I firmly believe that we become what we think. I consciously try to always have a positive frame of mind and thereby have never experienced any kind of hostility.

Defying odds

It was a photo shoot for a fashion magazine which altered her life. Today, Anjali Lama, a transgender model from Nepal, thanks her stars for getting early breaks as a model as she is now all set to demonstrate her talent at the upcoming Lakme Fashion Week.

Anjali Lama

Anjali Lama

“I was lucky to get my first break for a photo shoot in Voice of Women in 2009 and subsequently got offers for modelling. Had there been any other girl with good looks, body structure then she would have gone places,” says Anjali, in a soft voice over phone from Mumbai.

It was an uphill struggle for her. “Last year, I had almost made it to the Lakme Fashion Week. But I didn’t know anybody in Mumbai and was not fully prepared. I was rejected in the auditions. After rejection, I tried to figure out what went wrong and realised my weakness. I worked hard on my mistakes and fine tuned my walk. I love to wear every kind of dress whether it is Western or traditional. My relation with modelling fraternity is good. I have worked for leading designers in Nepal like Manish Rai and my favourite designers are Mishu Shrestha and Subexya Bhadel,” says Anjali.

Hailing from a nondescript village in the Nuwakot province of Nepal, Anjali was far removed from the glamour world. “Modelling was never a passion for me. It happened that people around me started motivating me that I slowly got interested in this profession. Though friends encouraged me, I faced discrimination as well. My behaviour did not conform to gender stereotypes and drew in a lot of criticism.”

Anjali says transgenders are treated quite unfairly everywhere. “Be it accommodation or job, nothing comes easy for us but people are getting more broad-minded and receptive and this is a great change for our community.”

Talking about social change, Anjali or Nabin Waiba in her previous avatar says her mother was encouraging and supportive of her way of life.

“She is no more in body, but her spirit still spurs me to put that extra effort and get noticed in the glitzy world of fashion. She was the only one supporting me when everyone was against my decision to model as a female,” says a remorseful Anjali.

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