There’s something to be said about getting to see the process of a watch coming together in the heart of Germany. About an hour’s drive from Dresden, in the picturesque town of Glashütte, is where A. Lange & Söhne’s signature timepieces are hand-crafted. It’s home to several other watchmakers as well — evidenced by several steel and glass buildings set amid the sights and sound of nature. They manage to blend in though: after all, they belong here, too.
Lange’s relatively new manufactory is one of these buildings. Designed specifically for watchmaking, it’s all about precision, right down to the angle of the windows. Even if you’re not a horophile, the experience of seeing the process of each watch being made is captivating. A short walk down the road from the manufactory is the historic house where Lange’s watches were first made. And it’s there that I meet head of product development, Anthony De Haas.
With an effortless sense of humour, he talks about wanting to be a drummer while growing up in theNetherlands, becoming a watchmaker instead and moving to Switzerland, and then to Germany to work at Lange. His approach to product design is simple: stay true to the brand’s aesthetic. In October 2016, when we met, he insists that for this reason, it’s impossible to make a ladies’ watch that would reflect Lange.
“It must be German but must be a ladies watch. We work on it, and someone says it looks like a Phillipe Patek or something else. If we make it more Lange, it doesn’t look like a ladies watch. So it’s tough to find the best fit. In any case, more women are wearing gents watches now,” he says. All this said with a straight face, well-knowing that at SIHH 2017 in January, they would release the Saxonia models aimed at women. After all, they do work with a five-year product strategy, and fix what’s being released for three of those years.
It takes time as each product must meet some pretty high standards: Lange’s watches are known for their impeccable finishing, understated nature and flawless hand-crafting. “If you look at the whole Lange collection, it’s very recognisable. Elegant, discreet and very classical; only a connoisseur could tell that it’s an expensive watch,” says De Haas.
Excerpts from the interview.
When we interacted late last year, you made a strong case as to why it would be near impossible to make a women’s line of Lange watches. What changed?
We always try to incorporate an element of surprise when releasing timepieces. The Saxonia models feature a new dial design that enhances their elegance and improve the legibility. When a time piece is introduced, we always ensure that it reflects the brands essence and philosophy. Additionally, with the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase which was launched at SIHH 2017, we have presented a real ladies complication.
How does Lange continue to be relevant? Who is your competition?
In terms of sales, you have competition. The sales guys see the market, and they want to have the biggest piece. I’m a product guy, so it’s a matter of taste. Is it fair then to talk about competition? It’s a different style and approach. It’s art. Are two different artists competitors? Not really, because they do it in their own way. It’s not arrogance; of course we keep an eye on what happens in the market. And I think it’s very good to stick to the things that you are good at.
What does it take to do what you do, to be a product developer?
You have to be crazy! (Laughs) But I don’t think there is a fixed definition. At other companies, you would have a designer or engineer in my role. But I’m neither; I’m a watchmaker. So you need a bit of talent, and be organised. It also helps to be open-minded. Then, it is a learning process. When I started at Lange 12 years ago, I didn’t know if I could do it. But I’m still here, they still haven’t kicked me out.
What do you have in mind when you’re designing a Lange watch?
I don’t see a person. If I’m doing a chronograph, I don’t see a young, handsome guy, rich, successful... I think I see our five families of watches. Each has its own identity, although, together, they are one. You can come from a technical point of view and say, ‘What could I do in this design? What can I integrate?‘ Or you can make a simpler watch. We call a Saxonia thin, well knowing that there are colleagues in watch brands who can make far thinner watches. But that was not the goal. Thin for us is the thinnest we have. It’s a very elegant watch, but you have to create the Lange face. Sometimes it takes very long, but that is the art of design.
What are the highlights of the models launched at SIHH 2017?
This year’s highlight is the Tourbograph Perpetual “Pour le Mérite”, which brings together five traditional mechanisms in one watch: fusée-and-chain transmission, tourbillon, chronograph with rattrapante function and the perpetual calendar. The new 1815 Annual Calendar has a manually-wound movement and analogue date, week, day and month, as well as a moon-phase display. With a chiming movement that signals the time in 10 minute intervals, the Zeitwerk Decimal Strike makes time audible. The Saxonia family has two new models with a mother-of-pearl dial. Then there’s the Lange 31 in white gold with a grey dial, which has power reserve of 31 days and a patented constant force escapement that provides uninterrupted operation.
Ramzi Nael, Brand Director, India, Middle East & Africa
The Indian market is characterised by a rapidly-developing watch culture and offers huge potential for our brand. We are constantly planning to further develop our presence. Every single timepiece is an unmistakable blend of design, technology, materials and craftsmanship, an expression of our drive to create discreet yet distinctive designs and novel technical solutions. Especially in India, with its rich artisan traditions and widespread sense of beauty, this message falls onto fertile soil. This market has always been a focus for A. Lange & Söhne since we opened our first point-of-sale in the region in 2007. In the long run, the country will continue to be a growing market. However, it must be remembered that the production capacity of our handcrafted timepieces is limited. Therefore, our distribution strategy is not aimed at opening multiple retail locations, but to enhance consumers’ experience of the brand at the right places.
Available in India at Helvetica (Chennai), Time Avenue (Mumbai) and Johnson Watch Company (Delhi)
