Italy’s Alto Adige is one of the bilingual provinces of the country where a majority of the population favours German. Located in the northeast of this boot-shaped country, the locals call this region Südtirol (or South Tyrol) as opposed to the Austrian (Nord) Tirol, bordering it just north. The area is a favourite destination for Germans and Austrians. The province’s capital Bolzano (Bozen in German) is a delightful and colourful town. It is surprising to experience the bucolic nature of this city of more than a lakh. Their Italian nationality notwithstanding, the people here speak Italian with a strong German accent.
The city spreads around Walther square. Its cathedral, with a multicoloured tiled roof, once again gives the impression that you are in Austria, and not Italy. It is surrounded by vast, green hills and open spaces. The Eisack River runs through it, allowing for refreshing walks along its paved banks. The inhabitants seem to make the most of this. You can see them jogging, walking their dogs or simply strolling with their families. Upon arriving in Bolzano from distant, boisterous Naples in Southern Italy, I was struck by the tranquillity and the clean, fresh air here. On stepping outside the railway station, there are beautiful hills covered with vineyards all around. It felt like paradise.
I was keen on hiking in the Dolomites and did not really know what to expect from Bolzano but soon realised that there was plenty to do in the city itself, and I quickly came to appreciate the quality of life people enjoy here. In fact, it is often rated amongst the best Italian cities to live in. This is not surprising since the residents of Bolzano not only benefit from the comforts that their city offers but also get to experience some incomparable mountain sports like biking, skiing and hiking. I was here for a sample of the latter. Instead of trekking in the better known Cortina d’Ampezzo area, I decided to go to a mountain pass called Passo di Costalunga and then to the villages of the Val Gardena area.
I caught a bus at the main bus station, conveniently located in the city centre near Walther square and reached my destination within an hour and a half. I got down at the last stop and found myself surrounded by conical peaks rising upwards. I was ecstatic! A short walk uphill and I was in the middle of a vast field carpeted with white and lilac flowers surrounded by the jagged peaks of the Dolomites stabbing the sky like stone daggers. I walked downhill through the forests and villages and came upon a pristine mountain lake. Even the sharp spikes of the Dolomites could not shatter the calmness of the Lago di Carezza, still like a turquoise sheet of glass reflecting the the mountains framing it. The countryside between Bolzano and Costalunga is breathtaking. There are several way-marked hiking and bicycle paths here.
The Val Gardena area with the charming villages of Selva, Ortisei (locally known as Urtijëi) and Santa Cristina makes for an interesting visit. It is popular for skiing and other sports in winter. It is also known for its tradition of woodcarving. Spending a couple of nights here to discover the local culture and explore the neighbouring mountains is recommended.
Another must-see is the Ritten plateau (Renon in Italian), just a short cable-car ride up from Bolzano. The ride offers breathtaking views of the vineyards, the summits all around and Bolzano itself. Some of the sights here include the quaint villages, the lakes in the forests, the toy train and the “earth pyramids”. The little mountain train resembles a tram and attracts engineers and railway aficionados from around the world.
The earth pyramids are fascinating glacial formations caused by erosion. There are several sites where one can see them but I recommend Longomoso (or Lengmoos) for its serene lotus pond and the spectacular views of the earth pyramids with a backdrop of the onion-domed Saint Nikolaus church on Monte di Mezzo and the rest of the gorgeous Dolomites. A day trip to the Ritten plateau on a full stomach, with enough stamina throws up endless possibilities but a night here opens up myriad opportunities to delve deeper into the culture and reach higher into the mountains. There are a few restaurants in the villages here and several hiking trails going through secluded lakes and open meadows.
Bolzano was a delightfully surprising visit and is a great base to explore le Dolomiti .
Getting there:
Bolzano is accessible by train from major Italian cities and a trip here can be combined with a longer Italian holiday. It is also accessible from Austria. The railway station is located in the heart of the city.
Getting around:
Buses (commonly called Pullmans) are the best way to access some of the villages and mountain passes in the area. The bus station is also located in the city centre close to the railway station.
