Wild greens love the monsoons and thrive best during this time of the year. Small sprigs of purple nightshade or manathakkali, as we know it, appears during this period. The weather and seasonal produce have a symbiotic relationship. What the soil produces in abundance during a particular time is directly linked to seasonal wellness.
As I walked along the sugarcane field near our farm, an interesting creeper caught my eye. The large purple flowers were similar to that of the brinjal. The fruit too was amazingly similar in appearance but for its diminutive size and cover of thorns.
The farmhand told me that this plant, called kandankathiri , usually crops up during the rains and helped keep the cold virus at bay and also helped treat a host of other ailments ranging from dental aches to tummy bugs. According to him, most people left it alone because of the effort involved in removing the thorns, which appeared not just on the crown of the brinjal-like fruit but along the entire plant. It’s also referred to as febrifuge plant or yellow-berried nightshade. It must be nature’s protection from being trampled on or being eaten raw by animals. I was pleased to get about half a kilo of the fruit.
Another farmer told me that the seeds, though inedible, should be carefully removed and stored. When roasted on a pan, the ensuing smoke is apparently effective in relieving painful gums.
The fruits turn yellow when ripe. The seeds must be scooped out before cooking resulting in tiny cup-like pieces that can then be braised or fried. The farmer showed me how easy it was to pull the crown away from the rest of the fruit with the tip of a spoon or knife.
The dried grass woven basket that I carry was filled to the brim with my day’s pickings. Apart from this, I also found rain-fed greens, and tiny country chillies. On the drive back home I went through the different possibilities of what I could cook to honour such beautiful produce.
Kandankathiri gravy
Preparing the fruit
Wash well to remove dirt. Hold the fruit at the bottom and pull the crown away with the edge of a spoon or knife. Cut the fruit in half and scoop out the seeds with a spoon.
Ingredients
Kandankathiri 350 gm
Cold-pressed nallenai 2-3 tbsps
Tamarind a lemon-sized ball soaked in one-fourth cup water
Tomatoes 2 finely chopped
Garlic 1 clove
Small onions 15
Onion 1 big, finely diced
Turmeric powder 1 tsp
Red chilli powder 1 tsp or to taste
Roasted cumin powder 1/2 tsp
Natural jaggery 1 tsp
Coriander leaves 2 tbsp, finely chopped
Salt to taste
Curry leaves, mustard seeds and dried red chillies for tempering
Method: Sauté the onions, tomatoes and garlic in 2 tbsps oil. Add turmeric powder, chilli powder, roasted cumin powder and a little salt. Fry until well cooked and pulpy. Let the mixture cool and then grind to a paste. Heat the remaining oil in a medium-sized deep vessel. Add mustard seeds. Once they splutter, add curry leaves and dried red chillies. Add small onions, a pinch of salt and sauté until the onions turn slightly golden. Add prepared kandankathiri and sauté on medium heat. Add the ground paste, jaggery and salt. Add half a cup of water and let it boil. Strain the soaked tamarind and add the pulp. Cook until the raw smell dissipates. Taste the dish after about 15 minutes and adjust the seasoning. Add the chopped coriander leaves. Turn off the heat after two minutes and serve hot with rice. The kandankathiri will be soft and pliable. It has a slightly bitter aftertaste similar to that of the bitter gourd.
