Breakfast at VARKALA
Have some fun in the sun at Varkala . Photo: S. Mahinsha
This one is for those who enjoy a bit of solitude, while taking in the sun, surf and sand. This holiday, wake up at dawn and drive the 50-odd km to Varkala cliff. Instead of taking the National Highway, drive through the longer and much more scenic country road that hugs the coast, via Perumathura and Muthalapozhi. There are lots of small lakes, ponds and pretty seaside villages along the route. At Varkala Cliff, with its long stretch of restaurants and curios shops, it’s only a matter of choosing what to eat and from where. Perhaps you would like an American breakfast with sausages and pancakes or why not go kosher and try an Israeli breakfast, complete with shakshouka? Stuff yourselves and then kick back and relax, looking out at the stunning ocean scenery as far as the eye can see. If you’re lucky, you can catch one of the impromptu live concerts by the foreigners that throng the place. Climb down to the beach and make a splash to cool off. Those wanting to continue their tryst with quietude can stay the night at one of the innumerable hotels and home stays near the cliff or, if you want a change of scenery, make the short trip to the backwaters and lakes of nearby Paravur or Kappil beach.
Up the misty mountains to PONMUDI
Top Station at Ponmudi Photo: Sreejith R. Kumar
If your idea is a holiday in the hills, then head to Ponmudi. Stop at Kallar, at the base of the mountain, and take a guided three-km-trek to the gorgeous Meenmutty waterfalls wading through streams and dense forest, taking in the abundance of flora and fauna around [not advisable for children]. Before tackling the 22 hairpin curves up the mountain, have a naadan lunch at one of the small eateries at Kallar, or, better yet, picnic by one of the many streams on the way up.
Make a brief stopover at the Golden Valley, with its clear streams and waterfalls, tucked away under a canopy of green. Take in the incredible views at top station at Ponmudi, where clouds float beside you. Count yourselves lucky if you get to spot an elephant herd crossing the valley below. To get an even better view, climb to the top of the adjacent hillock. Stay the night at the KTDC property and sing and dance around a campfire, interrupted by nothing but the sound of cicadas and the occasional trumpet of a wild elephant. Wake up to see the morning mist giving way to the rising sun.
On the trail of history to KANYAKUMARI
Kanyakumari Photo: Sreejith R. Kumar
It’s a journey of barely 90km to the Indian subcontinent’s southern most point, but there are a whole lot of historic places to discover on the way. If you are travelling to Kanyakumari from the city, it’s worth taking the quieter route via Kovalam and Vizhinjam to Kaliyakkavila, stopping at the 18th century rock cut cave temple at Vizhinjam. Just across the border at Chitharal, near Marthandam, make your way uphill to the ancient Jain rock cut temple. Feeling too hot? Backtrack and take a dip in the Thripparappu waterfalls a few km away, if you don’t mind the crowd that is.
Climb up the steps to Thottipalam (Mathur Aqueduct), to get a birds’ eye view of the greenery all around. Back on the National Highway, at Thuckalay, take a detour to the sprawling Padmanabhapuram Palace, with its wooden carvings and cornices that make it a hallmark of Kerala-style architecture. Take in the history of Udayagiri fort and go for a guided tour of Suchindram temple with its unique sculptures, before driving into Kanyakumari to see the famed sunset at the juncture where the Arabian Sea, the Bay of Bengal and the Indian Ocean meet.
There are quite a few budget accommodation options available in the city. Catch the dawn of a new day from atop one of the hotels near the beach and make the short boat journey across the sea to the Vivekandana rock and the Thiruvalluvar statue. Before heading home, take a brief detour to historic Vattakota fort and beach and Muttam beach.
Go eco-friendly at THENMALA
The viaduct at Aryankavu Photo: Sreejith R. Kumar
Forested hills, flora and fauna, sparkling waterfalls, clear blue skies and winding roads on the way to Thenmala and Achenkovil are just what you need to connect with nature. On the way, drop in at the TBGRI, Palode, and explore a variety of endemic trees and plants. At Thenmala ecotourism centre, about 72 km from the city, there are plenty of activities, from chasing butterflies in the butterfly safari to boating on the reservoir. Walk the wooded path of the ‘leisure zone’, which culminates in a view of the dam. Stay overnight in one of the hotels on the Punalur road and in the morning drive to Palaruvi waterfalls. Motor the winding ghat road up to Achankovil, which touches Shenkottai. Be sure to tuck into the scrumptious ‘border chicken’, sold in a number of shops along the border with Tamil Nadu.
It will set you in a good mood to click a picture at the awe-inspiring viaduct at Aryankavu. There are plenty of other photo ops all along the undulating terrain, waterfalls, charming rivulets, the odd peacock et. al., all the way to Achankovil. Spot the endemic ‘Chengurinji’ tree that gives the Shendurney Wildlife Sanctuary its name. Take a dip in the Achankovil river, picnic on its banks, or just meditate surrounded by nature.
Panoramic vistas of NEYYAR
A view of Neyyar Dam Photo: S. Gopakumar
It’s a place where the sky meets the mountains meets the river and it’s just 40-plus km away from the hustle and bustle of the city, via the rubber plantation-fringed road from Malayinkeezh and Kattakada. That’s why Neyyar dam makes for a perfect day trip. Go to the top of the dam, just so that you can get that breathtaking view of the reservoir, framed by the majestic Western Ghats. Get an even better view from the watch tower of the dam. See if you can spot the Agasthyamala peak. A boat ride around the reservoir is a must-do. Just about the only animals you can see, though, save the odd monkey, are the lions in the lion safari. It’s also a good birding destination to spot forest birds. Pop into the aquarium that has loads of colourful fish.
Walk or drive the short distance to the Crocodile Rehabilitation and Research Centre to see tens of crocs and gharials lounging in the sun. On the way back, pop into the Elephant Rehabilitation Centre at Kottoor, and if you’re lucky you’ll get to pet or feed a baby elephant.
