It’s impossible not to be awed by the natural spectacle of the wild and mysterious Tamina Gorge. It is located along a scenic path about five kilometres from the quaint Swiss town of Bad Ragaz and the cliffs around this narrow gorge rise up to 70 mt high. It’s been over 800 years since pilgrims made their journey to the Abbey of Pfäfers to bathe in the thermal waters. The region was put on the map in 1535 when renowned doctor and philosopher Paracelsus certified the healing powers of these thermal springs. It marked the early beginnings of spa tourism as we know it today, and Bad Ragaz continues to draw visitors for its pristine thermal water that bubbles at 36.5°C.
It’s comforting to know that the path to this destination is much easier than it was for kings and princesses who first accessed these thermal waters since the post renaissance era. The waters have now been diverted and arrive straight at the bathing pools of the region’s most luxurious hotel. The Grand Resort is synonymous with the town of Bad Ragaz since 1840. Aside from the private pools that allow guests to experience the thermal water it is also home to one of Europe’s largest luxury spas.
All the resort’s guests have access to a fleet of Porsches and Harley Davidsons but I set out on one of the resort’s bicycles to discover the region’s popular cycling routes. Bad Ragaz’s unique location makes it accessible from quite a few major cities across Europe. It is just an hour from Zurich and three hours from Munich or Milan. Apart from staying on the right side of the road the other challenge for me was to stay focused and ignore the spectacular vistas along the route. It’s one of those routes where I missed having a GoPro camera clicking images as I made my way through a mix of mountain and flat trails. A seven-kilometre ride that also crossed the Rhine River brought me to Landquart. This neighbouring town is home to a large designer outlet mall that busts myths about how shopping in Europe can be expensive. From international brands to local outdoor brands, this outlet mall has it all including a large Lindt chocolate store where my basic German skills helped me get extra freebies.
A round of golf seemed like the perfect change from a 15-km cycle ride; the Grand Resort has a choice of two golf courses — an 18-hole PGA course that hosts major European golf events and a smaller nine-hole course. Located at the foothills of the Alps with spectacular views, I soon found the scenery very distracting and impossible to keep my eyes on the ball. I eventually gave up and went back to explore one more of the many trails from the resort. The next trail took me to Heidi land. Maienfeld, another neighbouring village, is where Switzerland’s most popular children’s novel was set. Johanna Spyri spent time in this village to seek inspiration for Heidi , an enchanting story of a young girl who was in her grandfather’s care in the Swiss countryside. Published in 1880, the book has sold over 50 million copies. The Heidi legacy is preserved in a 19th century house that has become a museum. It showcases the Swiss rural lifestyle of the 1880s. The village is also home to Switzerland’s smallest post office and a shop is full of Heidi souvenirs. After a quick stroll, I found a place under the shade in a large quintessential Swiss meadow where I sat back for a while and almost fell asleep. The chimes from the large cowbells in the meadow ensured I didn’t.
Bad Ragaz is not just steeped in wellness history; it is also home to one of Europe’s oldest wineries. In 950 AD the abbot of the Pfäfers monastery laid the foundation for the region’s first vineyard and castle. The setting was dramatic, the Swiss Alps along the Rhine Valley on one end and a Baroque castle at the other end. The Schloss Salenegg is easily one of Europe’s most gorgeous vineyards and I quickly discovered it was more than just the view. The vineyard’s Pinot Noir lived up to its hallowed reputation. Swiss wine might not be as popular as its European counterparts but that’s mainly because the Swiss consume most of what they produce leaving very little to export. The other surprise at the winery was their wine-based vinegars infused with everything from raspberry to ginger.
After a frenetic day of bicycle tours and walking trails it was time to rest those weary heels. The thermal waters within the comfort of the Grand Resort provided the perfect antidote.
