A neon-wrapped city where everything rushes past with frenzied energy
The sheer scale of it all overwhelms me — super-fast traffic, winding flyovers, gigantic billboards flashing the latest Western fashion, a rainbow of red, orange and green neon wrapping the city in a rainbow haze… Shanghai is certainly China's showpiece city!
Our introduction to this fast-paced city is the ride on the sleek, German-designed and Chinese-built Maglev train (short for magnetic levitation), which floats friction-free and brings us from the glitzy Pudong International airport to the city in eight minutes flat, reaching upwards of 400 km an hour! This makes it the fastest commercial train in the world.
We ride on the gargantuan cable bridge, the Nanpu Bridge, past traffic gridlocks and a landscape from a sci-fi movie — a glittering mass of high-rise buildings. It is difficult to believe that until 1842, Shanghai was just a sleepy fishing village! It was the Opium Wars of 1842 that led to its becoming a cosmopolitan city.
The British, French and the Americans were given separate concession zones, and you can today see their influence in Shanghai's eclectic architectural buffet.
Shanghai literally means ‘by the river', and the city is bisected by the Huang Pu River. The Bund, the classic riverfront, is a good place to watch the cityscape. On the other side of the river is Pudong, with its futuristic architecture — the 101-storey Jinmao Tower with the Park Hyatt, the Shanghai World Financial Centre building shaped like a bottle opener, and the Oriental Pearl Building jutting into the sky like an invading spaceship. This was marshland about 15 years ago, and has grown six-fold since then!
As we watch the lights come on one by one, the buildings metamorphose into giant screens with advertisements and multi-hued images of butterflies and orchids.
On the other side, we can see lit Colonial-era buildings, a legacy of the city being the financial centre in the late 19th Century. Past, future and the present all come together in a mesmerising melee.
We are in Shanghai at the time of opening of the Shanghai Expo that showcases modern urban living — ‘Better city, better life'. We see the endearing blue mascot everywhere, and watch the city geared up for about 70 million visitors! The eye-catching red China Pavilion, pavilions shaped like sand dunes, even green apples, and the Australian pavilion in shades of the outback made of steel and copper are the talk of the town
As we walk on the main shopping mile — Nanjing Lu, with giant screens, milling crowds, and even a tourist tram — it's easy to imagine we are in some big American city. All the Western symbols of success are visible — glass and steel edifices, a glittering mass of luxury stores selling designer clothes, sunglasses, hip eating joints…. But, we also catch glimpses of parks, a Chinese hawker, someone pushing a cart and peddlers hawking knock-offs, reminding us that this is Asia.
For a taste of Old Shanghai, we visit the crowded Yuyuan market around the City God Temple. Laundry draped around windows, bowls of steaming noodles on plastic tables, fruits piled in baskets on shoulder poles across the backs of wizened women — this is a slice of China as we imagine it to be! The market is a crazy labyrinth of shops in the Ming and Qing architectural styles, with upturned roofs, wood-latticed windows and curved beams. There are endless rows of souvenir shops, traditional snacks, and a giant pond with people feeding the carp food.
Pearls, tea, bags, beads, calligraphy brushes, silk dresses, old bank notes, tea-pots in every shape and colour and silk umbrellas are on sale. The language barrier is as pronounced as the high-rise buildings in this city — any attempts to negotiate is met by the whipping out of a calculator followed by the theatrical “You killing me” or “My boss kill me”. We get adept at bargaining, and slowly fill up our shopping bags with small treasures!
We then drive to Zhujiajiao Water village on the shores of the Dianshan Lake, more than 1,700 years old. This is a Chinese Venice with 30 old bridges, waterways, alleys with old houses in Ming and Qing architecture, black-tiled roofs, all in theme-park perfection. We trawl through the narrow streets, and past half-closed wooden doors through which some unknown, tantalising, aromas waft through. There are peddlers selling rice dumplings with beef, sweet sticky rice filled in hollow bamboo sticks, gelatinous rice pudding, candied fruits on skewers and crustaceans of every size.
We beat the afternoon sun with our new headgear — Chinese hats with a pigtail hanging from the back!
The photogenic Fangsheng Bridge here was built out of a monk's alms gathered over 15 years. A wealth of handicrafts is on sale — embroidered Chinese landscapes, bejewelled mirrors and wood carvings, multi-coloured bags, musical instruments and kitsch memorabilia such as fake propaganda posters, little Red Books, and the ubiquitous Chinese lanterns.
It's fitting that we saw Shanghai as a prologue to our Chinese sojourn — it can never match the history of Beijing or Xian or the sheer scenic beauty of Guilin, but this is a city of energy and constant flux, which makes us want to return someday.