England in autumn can be a glorious site, a feast for the senses. The myriad colours and the serene country side can bring out the poet even in the most unimaginative among us. When we visited the English country-side a little after autumn, we went with our share of misgivings for missing out on the burst of rusts, reds, yellows and greens, each one in more lovely shades than the mind can conjure up. But that was before reaching the splendid Peak District in Derbyshire. Every bit of doubt and disappointment soon gave way to ‘ oohs ' and ‘ aaahs '.
A plate- full
Our stay to explore this scenic countryside was at the very comfortable Lumford Cottages right opposite the River Wye, in Bakewell. While the popular belief is that the name Bakewell originates from ‘ Bad-kwell' meaning ‘bath-spring' referring to the 12 mineral-water springs that used to exist here, I would like to settle for the fact that they bake some very differently delicious, delectable puddings. You can get your filling of this lip-smacking bake at ‘The Old Original Pudding Shop' dating all the way back to 1865. As with all local specialties, its origins are cloaked in mystery and the only recipe is in the possession of just one man, to be passed-on to the rightful heir complete with the secret ingredient.
In England everything is steeped in its own tales from the past and the Speedwell Cavern , an abandoned lead mine, is no different. To access the same you climb down 105 slippery steps to the landing stage of a very narrow underground canal from where you step on to your tour guide's boat for a trip that's not exactly recommended for the claustrophobic. But at the end of it all you emerge into a “magnificent cathedral like cavern” containing the awesome Bottomless Pit – a huge subterranean lake. And then you start your return journey to climb up the 105 steps to get back into sunlight.
Not too far away from the Speedwell Cavern is the Real Fudge Company of Derbyshire located on How Lane in Castleton where Peter, the owner, still makes fudge, toffee and marzipan the old fashioned way and Monica manages the store which also stocks a huge range of old-fashioned sweets sold from jars.
If you are in England and in the countryside then your trip is not complete if you've not had Pub food. And each little village has its own pub or two, complete with its own history and specialty dishes. One such place is Ashford Arms in the pretty village of Ashford-In-The-Water. Ashford Arms, part of the Ashford Inn dates back to the Napoleonic times and is a popular pub with its own distinctive menu featuring fillet steak, ashford smokey and sizzling lamb with apple and mint sauce among other such sinful delights.
The White Lion in Great Longstone, is another must on your visit list to Peak District, where Libby and Greg Robinson provide you imaginatively presented pub food in stylish, relaxed surroundings. The beer battered haddock with tartar sauce, hand cut chunky chips and mushy peas was a feast for our taste buds.
Then there is the Eyre Arms at Hassop which has quite a colourful history, as with most other pubs. The owner Nick Smith will tell you tales of how his pub is haunted and was featured in ‘The Most Haunted' show in 2007… but he laughs it all off saying that he's yet to see one. However one thing is for sure. The menu is bound to lift the spirits as it boasts some local delicacies including a venison pie and lots of choices for vegetarians. But what really floored us was the “onion bhaji”, that was part of the menu.
From lush meadows and leafy forests to rolling hills and dales, you can never have enough of the glorious sights across the English countryside. Goyt Valley located in the Peak District National Park, is one such place. It combines some of the most picturesque valley, moorland, river and reservoir scenery to be found in the United Kingdom. The heather clad moors with its purple carpet tinged with shades of pink & blue and patches of green grass in between can take your breath away. The Errwood Reservoir with an amazing reflection of blue on to the waters is a popular destination for many outdoor activities including walking, cycling, fishing and sailing depending on how far you would like to test your fitness.
One can't think of England without castles and stately homes. Chatsworth House, one of the more stately homes, is a very popular destination for visitors to the Peak District. It is the seat of the Duke of Devonshire, and has been home to his family since 1549. The home is a Museum and Art Gallery rolled into one with a priceless collection of sculptures, books, artifacts and paintings including those of Rembrandt, Van Dyck and Lucian Freud. With a 1000 acre park, River Derwent on the front and a tree-covered hillside on the back, it is a premier tourist attraction.
If you are visiting the Peak District, summer would be the best time when the flowers are in full bloom and the rolling fields a breathtaking green carpet, when “Oh, to be in England” is at its meaningful best.
