Kia Ora, New Zealand

After a whirlwind tour of Auckland and Rotorua, Latha Srinivasan raves about its thriving food scene, friendly people and the epic Hobbiton village

March 06, 2015 07:46 pm | Updated 07:46 pm IST - Chennai

BLUE, GREEN AND ALL THAT IN BETWEEN In New Zealand's North Island

BLUE, GREEN AND ALL THAT IN BETWEEN In New Zealand's North Island

Landing in Auckland on a sunny afternoon, we are delighted to see that the skies are clear and there’s no rain. The cold, damp winds from the Tasman Sea constantly hit New Zealand, and Auckland (sitting in the North Island) experiences a fair amount of rain through the year. So, once you are armed with a raincoat and shoes that are perfect for any type of weather, you are ready for the Kiwi experience.

The largest city in New Zealand, Auckland is the commercial capital and the skyscrapers and glass buildings of the big global banks are evidence of this. Towering above all at 328 metres is, of course, the Sky Tower, with hotels, restaurants, bars and casinos. It gives you a 360-degree view of Auckland. This is a good place to start your discovery of Auckland and exploring on foot would be the ideal option. The iconic Queen Street (High Street district) is just a stone’s throw away, and if you’re into fashion, the boutiques of New Zealand designers like Juliette Hogan and Karen Walker might be of interest. Due to the city’s café culture, this area is dotted with cafes and a hot cuppa at some of the popular outlets is recommended. My personal favourites are Reslau (Elliot Street), Ortolana (Britomart) and Federal Delicatessen (Federal Street). And if you have a sweet tooth, you could help yourself to some of the award-winning desserts that are found in the city at Milse (Britomart), Giapo (Queen Street), Moustache (Wellesley Street) and Casa Del Gelato. Don’t forget to try the liquorice flavour at Casa Del Gelato and the Carrot Cake at Milse.

Strolling on the Te Ara Tâhuhu Walking Street (Maori for ridgepole) is a unique experience – you start from the Chief Post Master’s Office, go through the Britomart Transport Centre and onto Station Plaza. There’s a volcanic fountain here and 10 light-wells that represent the 10 volcanic cones in the Auckland area. Before the World Cup started, a large countdown clock sat here in front of the Downtown Shopping Centre and was the centre of attraction for selfie-takers.

The viaduct area is lovely to walk around, especially the Silo Park which is near the 35-metre cement silo. In summer, many events are held here, but over the weekends, don’t forget to catch the Silo Market on Friday night or Saturday afternoon. Between January 24 and 26 every year, the Auckland Seafood Festival takes place at the Wynyard Quarter, where you’ll find fresh, delectable seafood being served out in more than 50 stalls. The event also includes the annual Blessing of the Fleet (a tradition where the fishing fleet is wished a prosperous and safe year ahead).

While the Sky Tower is one way of taking in a bird’s eye view of Auckland, another more natural way is to head to Mount Eden (Maungawhau). Walking up the hill from Mount Eden Village energises you and there are often sheep and cows grazing around to keep you company. After enjoying yet another panoramic view of the city, head back to the village for a refreshing cup of coffee or a bite at Circus Circus, Mozaik Café or Meredith’s. (The hash browns, salmon and poached eggs are very popular at Circus Circus, while it is the lamb that deserves credit at Meredith’s.)

Getting around Auckland is quite easy on foot and by public transport. Since the Kiwis are extremely helpful, you can’t really get lost. Make sure you go to the city’s oldest suburb, Parnell Village, which is hardly ten minutes by bus from Auckland’s Central Business District. A stop at the Chocolate Boutique for their renowned hot chocolate and Antoine’s for their Cannelloni with leeks, aubergine and bulgur wheat baked with mozzarella and tomato fondue is mandatory.

Around Auckland, you’ll find some beautiful beaches, including Piha, Mission Bay and Karekare. Quiet Karekare’s claim to fame is that it was featured in the Hollywood film The Piano and it’s also renowned for the Beach Race Day (where horses and ponies race to raise money for various causes) held every year in April. Mission Bay is more lively and vibrant with its cafes, pubs and restaurants and is perfect for an evening out. Kelly Tarlton’s Sea Life Aquarium is a must-see for kids as it has more than 30 live animal exhibits, including a colony of penguins and a shark cage. Renting a bike and riding around the Eastern Bays is the best way to discover this area. If you are into surfing, then head to Piha which, interestingly, has black sand.

Au naturel

The air is fresh and so is the produce. New Zealand churns out almost 16 billion litres of milk a year and the produce here is amazingly fresh and delicious. Artisans and farmers get together at the Matakana Village Farmers’ Market every Saturday to sell everything from fresh produce like fruits and vegetables to baked goods, wine, flowers and even fresh homemade jams, sauces and soaps. The Victoria Park Market has reopened after a three-year break, and is a delight. It’s a vibrant mix of food, fun and shopping and you’ll find some great homemade items to take back home.

Though New Zealand wines are quite nascent and not as large-scale in production as Australia, wine still remains integral to Kiwi business. A vineyard tour on Waiheke Island (45 minutes by ferry from Auckland) is ideal for experiencing native wines and most tours take you to three vineyards (like Mudbrick Vineyard, The Goldie Room and Te Whau Vineyard) on the island. The New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is said to be the best in the world; so make sure you enjoy this and buy a bottle or two for home. A day spent exploring the vineyards and tasting wine is truly bliss. Like Benjamin Franklin said, “Wine is sure proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy!”

Of Hobbits and Maoris

J. R. R. Tolkien made hobbits popular. Just 176 km outside Auckland lies the land of the hobbits. This is where director Sir Peter Jackson’s The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit series were shot. Even if you aren’t a film buff, a visit to Hobbiton is an adventure that makes your journey complete. You can make a day visit to Hobbiton, but an ideal itinerary would be to visit Hobbiton and then head to Rotorua to see the Maori Village, explosive geysers and geothermal spas.

Located in the 1250-acre Alexander Farm at Matamata, Hobbiton has been crafted exactly to J. R. R. Tolkien’s specifications. Walking around the Hobbit Holes, Gardens, Party Tree, The Mill and The Green Dragon Inn, you know you are part of film history as the tour guides help you unravel the secrets of Hobbiton. For instance, one secret is that the tree towering over Bilbo’s home is actually man-made and has over 300,000 fake leaves from Taiwan planted on it. The rest I’ll let you discover on your journey here. Make sure to end your tour here with a meal at The Green Dragon Inn, which serves hobbit fare and specially brewed ales by Southfarthing and this includes Girdley Fine Grain and Oatbarton Brew.

After an hour’s drive from Hobbiton, you land at Rotorua, the town that occasionally smells like ‘rotten eggs’. Well, that’s only sulphur, thanks to the volcanic activity. The Te Po experience at the Te Puia Maori Village is the highlight of Rotorua. Guy, our official guide here, made sure that the evening, filled with storytelling, song-and-dance and a Maori feast called the Hakari, was unforgettable. Seeing the food being taken out of the Hangi pit (where rocks are preheated and food is wrapped in manuka leaves and cooked), reminds one of the Gujarati Undhiyu preparation, though the quantities here are large and dishes diverse. From the initial Powhiri, Wero, Karanga, Whaikorero, Kapa Haka, Waiata-a-ringa, Poi Dance and Haka, the cultural performance and the traditional feast transports you to a bygone Maori era. New Zealand truly packs in the best of the modern and the traditional.

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