My excitement knew no bounds when my parents told me that they would take me to Mount Kailash. The usual route taken by the travellers is from Kathmandu, Nepal, before heading to Lhasa. But we took a different one. Starting from Kathmandu, we went to Nepalgunj. From there, we took a chartered flight to Simikot, then a helicopter ride to Hilsa, next to Taklakot, Mansarovar, and finally, to Mount Kailash.
Once we landed in Kathmandu, we met our team, which comprised 45 members. At 15, I was the youngest of the lot.
Our preparation on day one started in Kathmandu. Each one of us was given a duffel bag, a raincoat, three plastic covers, two water bottle bags, a jacket and a packet of Diamox tablets (which help to increase the oxygen content, reduce headaches, tiredness, nausea, dizziness and shortness of breath that can occur when you climb quickly to high altitudes — generally above 10,000 feet).
We left our extra luggage in Kathmandu and carried only minimal luggage – which included our gear, toilet kit, medicine and one pair of extra clothing.
Our routine began from the second day. Medical check-ups were done twice a day, drinking three litres of water was a must, taking a Diamox tablet twice a day; exercise and spinning was also mandatory. There were three doctors who recorded our daily fitness levels on a medical card.
After a day of relaxation in Kathmandu, we were introduced to Tankah, our guide.
Our journey towards Nepalgunj started the next day. Nepalgunj is a small town, which has a very small airport. Later, a team of cooks and helpers also joined us from there for the rest of the journey.
Rural vistasI was thrilled, as I was going to fly in a chartered seven-seater aircraft. I sat behind the pilot and we landed at a miniature airport in a beautiful hamlet. I could instantly feel the difference in the altitude and temperature. We were put up in a small mountaintop hotel. Here, my journey of discomfort started. The toilets and rooms had to be shared. We had to go on an eight-km trek to acclimatise — not all that easy, as oxygen is rarefied.
We went to the Siva temple and saw the Karnali River flowing down below. I noticed that the men here gossiped and whiled away their time, while the women did all the manual work, like digging ditches, farming, repair work, selling and also taking care of their children.
The next morning we took off for Hilsa. While Simikot is at 9,500 feet above sea level, Hilsa is at 12,000 feet. The helicopter ride was enthralling, and it is the only mode of transport to Hilsa.
The chopper had to take a vertical lift above the mountains. The pilot had to deftly manoeuvre the chopper between the mountains. He then took a swerve and adeptly landed the chopper. Whew! This ride was more thrilling than a roller coaster.
Hilsa is extremely cold with chilling winds. We had warm soup and chapattis. We then crossed a long suspension bridge over the Karnali River into China. The Chinese meticulously inspected our baggage, not once, but twice. We were dumped into a Volvo-lookalike bus. Here everything was Chinese; buses, bikes and cars. We were taken to a town 14,000 feet above sea level called Taklakot, to the supposedly most posh hotel there called The Purang. Our baggage was once again checked.
We walked around the streets after a medical check-up to tune ourselves to the oxygen level. We trekked to the cave of a Buddhist princess. People keep cash in the walls of this cave as a form of prayer. Nobody seemed to be tempted to take the money, though it was strewn all around.
Natural beautyNext morning, we took a bus to Mansarovar, stopping briefly at Rakshas Tal. It’s a huge lake with crystal-clear water. I was not allowed to go near the lake, as folklore says this lake is possessed by evil spirits. Mansarovar is an ethereal lake.
We rested in a guest house. Suddenly, my father started walking in a disoriented manner and said his hearing was affected. Fortunately, he was alert enough to inform the doctor there. These were signs of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness). He needed oxygen to get his brain back in action.
We resumed the journey, and from there, it was only open toilets. I woke up at 4 a.m. to view the lake, as people say that the legendary Saptarishis (seven sages who are extolled in Vedic literature) take a dip there. I did not get to see the sages, but chanced upon a beautiful sky. I saw an orange star and a white star coming close to the lake, but I still don’t understand why and how.
Next day, it was time for a dip in the lake and a brief ritual by the group members. The water was freezing and refreshing. From here, we took off to Mount Kailash, half way by bus and then the trek commenced.
Mansarovar is at 16,000 feet and Mount Kailash at 21,778 feet. The freshness of the air, the cavorting of the rivulet and the majestic silence of the mountains is a sight for sore eyes. The vegetation here is sparse. At one place, there were a few tented stalls which sold hot noodles, water and tea (what a life saver).
Majestic mountainNext morning, we went on the outer parikrama to Mount Kailash. From our room, it was about a two-km walk or rather a trek, to be precise. On reaching the top, we sat in front of the mammoth mountain.
Others were in deep meditation, but I took pictures and filled a couple of bottles at the Kailash river to take back home.
I have visited 18 countries, but this has been the most unforgettable experience till now. Getting acclimatised to 21,778 feet is challenging.
Next morning, we had to start our return journey and follow the same trail. My journey began very early. I was sent separately with a group of older members in a jeep at 6.30 am. It was pitch dark and freezing. I reached Taklakot early and had to wait for a long time for my parents to arrive. Finally, I’m back home, enjoying hot idlis, sambar and chutney, but my heart again longs to go back to the solitude of the mountains.
