Who can remain indifferent to the sight of a mustard field in full bloom? It is an iconic image of Indian culture, symbolising the advent of basant , a festival celebrated across the diversity of our plural cultures. And who would easily believe that broccoli or cabbages are close relatives of the mustard plant, belonging as they do to the Brassica family of vegetables, which is highly anti-carcinogenic? In fact, just in the case of mustard itself, we can count up to 40 different types; however of these only three are harvested: the black variety which originates in the Middle East, the white variety which is a native of the eastern Mediterranean region and the yellow variety, which so famously carpets the foothills of the Himalaya, its native soil.
This plant finds mention in Sanskrit texts that go back five millennia. Today, though it is widely grown in North India, raagi growers do cultivate a small quantity of mustard too, for as we know, mustard seeds, rai in Hindi and kadugu in Tamil, are a preferred tempering ingredient both in the north and the south of India.
Apart from having properties that have anti-cancer effects, the seeds are also diuretic, heat giving and good for circulation while also purifying blood.
They are a good source of selenium, magnesium, omega-3 fatty acids, manganese, phosphorus, copper, vitamins C and K as well as some B vitamins; the body processes its beta-carotene content as vitamin A.
As far as mustard greens are concerned sarson da saag , they contain most of the phytochemicals of the plant. They are especially beneficial in bringing relief to people suffering from colds, arthritis and even depression. No wonder they are a preferred winter delicacy in Northern India, where they are served with makki ki roti and gud .
Mustard oil, which is extracted from the seeds, is the oil of choice in northern and eastern India. They are cold pressed in artisanal presses called ghanis , some of which are activated by oxen. Socio-economically they play an important role, providing good quality, healthy oil, at low cost to the poor. sarson satyagraha Like coconut oil, mustard oil too does not change its properties on being reheated and so can be used safely again and again. Since it is fungicidal, it is an ideal choice for pickling, contributing both flavour and food safety.
The high isothiocyanate content of mustard oil helps detoxify carcinogens, inhibit cancer cells and protect the gastro-intestinal tract and colon from cancer. In Ayurveda, garlic and turmeric are added to heated mustard oil and used for therapeutic massages in cases of joint and muscular pains.
In India, its seeds are used as a spice and to prepare condiments such as the Bengali kasundi , which can proudly stand up to the Dijon mustard. Its greens, we have seen, is used to prepare the world famous sarson da saag and its oil is used both for culinary and therapeutic purposes. Whether it is the machhar jhol of Bengal, with all its complex blend of spices, of which mustard seed paste and oil are the prime ingredients or the simple but strong statement which Bihari chokhasalubaiganole make, mustard seeds and oil lend their own burst of taste and aroma to any dish, something we also look forward to in upmas, raitas or chutneys tempered with mustard seeds.
To extend their repertoire, just sprout the seeds and use them in salads where it will add an extra zing. Again, pakodas and fish fried in mustard oil would delight the most jaded palates.
As cooking oil, it is a very healthy choice; those who would like to tone down its strong flavour can just bring the oil to smoking point, let it smoke for a minute or so, then lower the flame and proceed as usual. Always opt for using ghani -pressed mustard oil instead of the much-touted industrial canola oil, which has the toxicity of refined oils and none of the benefits of the Brassica family, which get denatured in the processing.
Gastronomy, it is said, often evolves from the simple, rustic cuisine of a region or community. So here, in this recipe for aluchokha , is an ode to simplicity: boil a couple of potatoes, mash them and then season with mustard oil, chopped onions, green chilies and green coriander leaves; you can replace the mashed potatoes with the flesh of grilled aubergines or boiled yam.
World-renowned seed activist Vandana Shiva and Navdanya Director Maya Goburdhun believe in the power of local superfoods. Navdanya is actively involved in the rejuvenation of indigenous knowledge, culture and forgotten foods.
