Not far from Eraniel in Kanyakumari District is Thalakulam, an agrarian hamlet that holds a significant place in the history of ertswhile Travancore. Thalakulathu Valiya Veedu, a memorial to Velu Thampi Dalawa (1765-1809), is a stately mansion that was constructed during the mid-nineteenth century. It is an architectural gem with intricate workmanship rarely seen elsewhere.
Walking towards Southwest of Valiya Veedu, we come across a Perumal Coil dedicated to Sree Krishna. Turn right, and you will get a glimpse of an ancient dwelling, sandwiched between modern constructions.
This house, located in a slightly elevated ground, is Thalakulathu Mele Veedu, an ancient family closely related to Valiya Veedu. The early history of Mele Veedu and Valiya Veedu can be traced back to a period when the Venad rulers were based at Eraniel. When the royal family of Travancore shifted to Padmanabhapuram, some members followed the royals and moved to the new abode. Later, when the capital was shifted to Thiruvananthapuram, a few members relocated and now most of the family members have settled in the capital city.
The house has now fallen into hard times. The valiya padippura, the thekkath, and a small section of the courtyard house are what remains today of the once sprawling ettukettu complex. However, the existing structure is a fine example of an architectural type that can protect its occupants from the harsh sun and heavy rain in the region. Ninety-four-year old Sarasamma Thankachi and her daughter and extended family reside in the complex. “No one knows when this house was constructed,” says Sarasamma. “As far as I remember, my mother, Rukmini Pillai Thankachi, and her maternal aunt Kunji Pillai Thankachi had lived here,” she adds. Blessed with a crystal clear memory even at this ripe age, Thankachi recalls that in olden days the male members of the family received ‘adithoon’ (pension) from the palace and that for weddings special gifts were sent to the female members.
Sarasamma Thankachi, who was born in Mele Veedu, had seen the house during its days of glory. “There were only two prominent Nair houses in Thalakulam; Valiya Veedu was one and ours was the other. Not far from here is Pulluvilakathu Mele Veedu in Muttalakurichi, the house of the Sarvadhikaryakkars, which is related to our family. These three houses, along with the house of Raja Kesava Das is said to be constructed at the same time, under the supervision of the same master craftsman,” recalls Thankachi. According to her, all these houses belonged to a similar type, with a padippura (gateway), thai veedu (core house), thottikakam (courtyard), thekkath (place ofworship), and arappura for storing grain.
The poomukham and associated structures, all constructed in timber, collapsed due to age. The valiya arappura and cheriya arappura for storing the harvest was also dismantled after the family lost most of its farmlands. “We still maintain some of the farmlands,” says Thankachi. “The family members have kept apart farmland for the maintenance of the family temple dedicated to Bhadrakali.” The old granary in the valiya padippura is still used to store the harvest from the field.
Today, a few ornate capitals from the front veranda, the elaborate charupadi, and the main gable with the face of Goddess carved in relief are some of the reminders that help us connect with the glorious past of the house.
(The author is a conservation architect and history buff)
