Bow ties have come a long way from being that crisp ribbon of fabric around Sean Connery or Gregory Peck’s necks. What has been, for long, defined strictly as a men’s accessory for formal events has moved beyond both men and traditional ceremonies. They are now part of women’s wardrobes, and are being worn to more casual settings like a bar night or a school party. So much so that a Canada-based bow tie company, The Bow Tie Club, has launched a new series for cruise holidays, and U.K.-based Mrs Bow Tie features ties themed on space, sports, flags, gaming and more, for all age groups.
While nothing beats the prim black bow tie as the go-to accessory for weddings and high society gatherings, “several options are available today for a semi-formal or casual get-up. Bow ties have expanded towards this segment in the last two years. Today, a guy can pair a buttoned-up shirt with shorts, sneakers and a bow tie, and it will look great at a music, art or food festival,” says Nikhil Sharma, founder of menswear brand Lacquer Embassy. For over a decade, he has been designing for several retail brands in the U.K. and India.
With the changing scenario, more designers are opting to experiment with the neck piece — bringing in a spin to the classic. Polkas, stripes, checks, tweeds and herringbone ties are now mainstream. “Satin and velvet are common among our customers in India. We want to take a step ahead and experiment by mixing different fabrics, layering and textures, but in a very controlled manner, so it still looks sophisticated,” says Nikhil. “For example, we created a bow tie with grey woollen felt and with leather and cotton inserts. It has a monochromatic look, but actually has three fabric combinations! We also did printed geo-patterned ties with a nautical theme,” he adds.
A large chunk of people also go in for bespoke and customised bow ties. “Sometimes, they would want the bow tie to be in the same colour and fabric of the suit. That, according to us, is a bad idea. Contrasting colours work for bow ties. With a brown suit, one can probably opt for a tweed brown bow tie,” he suggests.
“Some of the hottest patterns today include skeletal bow ties with just the outlines made using brass or dull silver,” says Bassam Osman, who runs Bassam Apparel Studio in Chennai. “My favourite, however, is the leather bow tie that pairs well with a pair of jeans, T-shirt and, maybe, a tuxedo,” he says.
On a global level, the scope of design is being stretched to the limit. For instance, there are bow ties available as two pieces with interchangeable different patterns, instead of a traditional single piece (by Deck Head) and those made of canary wood and wenge wood (by Two Guys’ Bow Ties). A couple of years ago, 12-year-old Moziah Bridges started a company called Mo’s Bows, to bring out bow ties exclusively for kids!
Bow ties, which originated in the late 1800s as an innovative means to keep shirts buttoned, have lived beyond their purpose. Over the years, the tie-it-yourself ties have been tweaked to include buckles and clip-ons. “As we see it, Americans have it in their tradition to wear bow ties for formal events. A gentleman, according to their culture, never wears an open bow tie. A common sight in weddings is that of the best man having the bow tie dangling around his neck,” says Nikhil with a laugh. On the other hand, in Europe, more opt for pre-tied bow ties.
With bow ties now being part of the women’s fashion statement, they fit as perfectly on button-less shirts and collarless necks (as demonstrated by Drew Barrymore in Going the Distance ), as on strict formal men’s shirts. The ‘dapper woman look’ is in, with big brands like Saint Laurent introducing satin silk muslin bow ties and Hermes coming up with pre-tied colourful bow ties (can also be sported on the wrist) exclusively for women. Also on the rise are designers like Boston-based Christopher Chaun Bennett, whose high-end unisex bow ties (priced between $200 to $750) are reportedly worn by celebrities like Beyonce and Kal Penn.
While people have been accepting of the several reinventions of bow ties, what would be interesting to see is a recycled paper bow tie on an expensive tuxedo, as mentioned by Bassam. He says, “That’s the quirkiest bow tie I have come across till date. It was made using the Origami technique.” Probably, it’s just a matter of time before they become a rage too.
