The sudden showers send the Ramzan shoppers on Triplicane High Road scrambling for cover. But two young women zip about on their scooter unperturbed, the stone-studded sleeves of their burqas flapping in the wind. These women represent the new generation of burqa-wearers — one that has transformed the outfit into a fashion statement.
The traditional black burqa now comes embellished with stones, patchwork, net, thread work and more. “When we first started, we sold burqas for Rs. 350. We now have fancy burqas priced at Rs. 4,000 and above,” says Imtiyaz Ahmed of Samira Burkha Collection. Imtiyaz stocks a range of fashionable burqas, some of which he designed himself and got tailored in Dubai. “Teenagers prefer well-fitting burqas that make them look slim,” he says.
His newest arrivals include the umbrella-cut burqas that are tight at the bust with a flare; the front-open burqas that come with an adjustable belt; the dressy ‘chain-stones burqa’ for brides with glittery stones down the front, back and sleeves; the ‘crystal cloth’ burqas that are soft as a cloud to touch; the lycra burqas with violet, red, green, and grey patchwork; pleated burqas that resemble an evening gown and more. “These have become a trend with youngsters,” explains Imtiyaz. “They are paired with hijabs that are available in matching colours.” Mariyam Bee, a bride-to-be who has come shopping with her family, got herself a burqa with black stones. “I like it simple,” she says. But Saliha likes it grand. She scans through one burqa after another at Arman Collection glancing at her mother’s face for approval. Hameed, who runs the store, has tiny burqas for even two-year-olds.
Stone-studded burqas are the pick of the season — they occupy pride of place in the stores that dot Triplicane High Road; there are at least 10 along this stretch that gets busier as Ramzan nears. Some of them import burqas from Dubai, while others have tailoring units in the outskirts of the city.
It took Zareena a month to get used to wearing a burqa. She wore one as soon as she finished school and describes her first day in the outfit as “different”. Today, she is surrounded by burqas at Taha Dress House, her workplace. “This year, we have plenty of new arrivals in jersey fabric from Hyderabad, Mumbai, Bangalore,” she says.
Not everyone, however, has embraced the new trend. Imtiyaz says that 50 per cent of his customers prefer traditional plain black burqas. “My wife’s burqas will be devoid of any embellishments,” he smiles. “She may wear ones with simple black stones if she attends a party, but nothing elaborate,” he adds.
Mohammed and his wife are burqa shopping at Ar-Rayyan Collection. She owns three burqas in all and for Ramzan, she is treating herself to an ornate black burqa with grey patchwork and a generous drizzle of stones. “Times have changed,” says Mohammed. “So has the burqa. In the past, it was a plain black dress worn for modesty.
But the present generation wants to try new things,” he adds. Ar-Rayyan has burqas in five colours, including green, maroon, and navy blue. The store also specialises in burqas that resemble blazers — with collars and bold buttons down the front. “Burqa fashion keeps changing,” says salesman Lingappan. “Our lycra burqas are the top-sellers. They are stretchable and fit well. We get them from Hyderabad.”
Almas, the 50-year-old saleswoman, laughs when asked if she likes the fancy burqas she sells. “No, no, I’m too old for them,” she says, waving her hand as she folds a burqa with white thread-work. Does she remember her first burqa? “It was plain black,” she blushes. “I wore it when I turned 13.”
