What does Durga Pujo mean to a Bengali?” That’s a question Bengalis and Google are well used to answering. The search portal throws up several answers and articles. But nothing can quite explain the emotions and nostalgia attached to it. Ask a Bengali what Durga Pujo means to them and they may just write a paean. It’s as much about dhaak , dhunuchi and pushpanjali as it is about revelry and great food.
It all starts with Mahalaya, the day Durga is believed to make her entry into Earth, a week before the beginning of the actual festivities. The day begins at 4 a.m. when the TV and radio are switched on for the relay of Mahishasuramardini in the captivating voice of the late Birendra Krishna Bhadra. Those living away from Kolkata find themselves huddled in front of YouTube to watch, goose bumps and a lump in the throat guaranteed.
Now, the countdown has ended, and here we are, bang in the middle of the biggest celebrations for Bengalis. But the joie de vivre is not just limited to the community. Like most festivities in the country, it’s a universal celebration. New clothes, new shoes, fasting, hours spent in the pandals , music, dandiya , Rabindra Sangeet, natok (plays)… Kolkata begins to resemble Las Vegas, with all its glittering bright lights and dizzying themed pandals — there’s the Eiffel Tower, the Lords stadium, Lego house, stree shakti , and this time, it’s got the first-ever transgender idol as well.
The planning for pandals starts almost immediately after the previous year’s pujo is done. Delhi and Mumbai, too, focus on creative themes. This time, the African island of Sao Tome and Principe has issued 1500 stamps with Goddess Durga on them; they are adorned with velvet and Swarovski elements. Meanwhile, in faraway Copenhagen, a homesick group puts the finishing touches to their simple pandal . In Chicago, one of the many Bengali youth committees is delighted about their leave getting sanctioned, as they busy themselves with pujo rituals and preparing bhog on their own, with recipes from their families back home. Sometimes, it’s done over Skype, and sometimes, the salt may be a little more, but that doesn’t matter — it’s all about the bonding and togetherness.
The Bengali associations of Chennai are promoting a similar line of celebration. They may not be big on themes or have an elaborate idol with the lights of a Paradis Latin show, but they painstakingly arrange every little detail that a Bengali looks out for during this festival.
The Bengal Association, T. Nagar
For most part of the year, this building is like the plain Jane in high school. But come pujo and it’s decked up like the prom queen and has the airs of one too. Celebrating its 82nd pujo this year, this is perhaps the oldest Bengali association in Chennai. After the jostle to get a parking space, it’s the unmistakable whiff of chicken rolls that calms your senses. Once inside, there are the large idols of Durga and her children Ganesh, Karthik, Saraswati and Lakshmi taking centre stage. The idols are made by Jivan Krishna Pal, a sculptor from Kolkata, who stations himself here for a month and a half, creating the idols. The cooks also have been brought in from West Bengal along with numerous containers of spices and condiments.
Bhog is served in the afternoons; the menu varies from pulao to khichdi. Other than that, delicacies such as pulao and kosha mangsho, mughlai and chaats should keep the rest busy. “Last year, luchi and aloor dum were the favourites and we ended up selling 800 plates per day. Yes, we are prepared for that this year as well,” smiles one of the officials. There are cultural programmes in the evenings, the highlights being Bratati Bandhyopadhyay’s recitals of poems about the Goddess on Wednesday.
Dakshini Society, Anna Nagar
Anjali, arati, adda, bhog — these are the four aspects this 21-year-old association focuses on. The dhaakis may not have high-end consoles like DJs, but they sure know how to make people dance to their beats. Add to it the dhunuchi naach, where people dance with earthen pots containing burning coconut husk and dhuno , and you’re all set to party.
The bhog is popular and has a different menu on all four days. “On Saptami (today) there’s khichuri, hinger kochuri on Ashtami, pulao on Nabami and rice with shukto, beuli dal, alu poshto,” says Partha Ray, governing body member of Dakshini. Of course, we didn’t forget the mishti — that’s an obvious part of all the meals. And the food stalls have more traditional sweets, like labango latika, pantua and langcha chom chom, komola bhog, Bengali bonde and chaler payesh to satiate your sweet tooth.
South Madras Cultural Association, Besant Nagar
At 11 feet, this could well be one of the biggest idols in the city. It’s called the ekchala idol, an older sculpture-making practice in which all the five idols are set on a single frame. This technique allows the sculptors to give it the desired height. Bengali songs, the crowd of people, mostly in pyjama kurtas and saris, and the constant chatter in Bengali all around, can lead you to think you’re in Bengal.
The frantic queues for chicken cutlet, Mughlai and phuchka leave you with little time to stand and stare. With 25 food stalls serving the best of Kolkata’s street food, it’s wise to split up and line up at various queues. You do not want to reach the roshogolla counter just to find empty containers staring back at you.
In the evenings, burn your calories by shaking a leg to the jugalbandi between the dhaakis and the DJ, or sit back listening to live music performances.
Dakshin Chennai Prabasi Cultural Association, OMR
Ever since chow mein made its appearance in Kolkata, around the end of the 18th century, the city pretty much adopted it as its own. It’s a ubiquitous staple in many Bengali kitchens, sharing space with poshto, paanch phoron and aloo bori. The love affair has continued, and that explains why most of the pandals have a Chinese counter offering chilli chicken and chow mein. The Chinese counter at DCPCA is as sought-after as the mishti-doi counter. “We’ve got the doi from Kolkata. Last time we sold 200 per day. This time we’re getting enough to cater to the high demands,” says Swapnonil Bose, general secretary. The festivities are taking place at the Gem Inn Resort with music performances by Jaya Rajagopal and a dance performance by Odissi exponent Sanhita Basu Ghosh on Ashtami and Bollywood music and dandiya on Nabami.
Other than the bhog, the dhunuchi nach is quite a hit here, as people are fascinated by it.
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The Uttoron Bengali Cultural Association in Karayanchavadi, Poonamallee, organises four days of Durgotsav with a host of puja rituals, artis and bhog. Like the other organisations, here too, you can partake in Shindur khela that will take place on Dashami at 3 p.m. when the idols are ready to be sent for immersion.
Bihar Chaupal’s Chennai Chapter celebrates the festival with a Bihari food festival at Hema Malini Mini Hall on Lloyds Road. The festival will be on till October 21 but the idols will be on display till October 22.
