When Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan built the Red Fort as a royal residence within the fortified palace of Shahjahanabad, he spared a thought for his beloved Mumtaz Mahal and the other women in his life, who needed a break from the humdrum existence of their luxurious yet secluded harem. The Emperor ordered that a market of silver and gold jewellery and handicrafts — now known as Chhatta Chowk or Chhatta Bazaar — be set up within the palace. This would enable women from the royal family to enjoy an uninterrupted shopping experience.
Its heyday may be a thing of the past, but shops are still running in the enclosure, many operated by families who have been in this ancestral business for over a century. To beautify the bazaar, the Archaeological Survey of India is restoring 32 cells located above the shops. It has removed kitchens, toilets and offices made by the Army while it was stationed there. But the work is being done at a snail’s pace, and so far only one cell has been restored.
“Work is being done in such a manner that visitors are not disturbed. We are trying to restore the Mughal architectural design patterns inside each of these cells. Work in only one cell, where the diamond cut design had been completely destroyed, has been completed. We will undertake work in the remaining cell after August 15,” says an ASI official.
According to 87-year-old A.P. Singha, one of the oldest shopkeepers, the British continued to patronise the bazaar after taking over the fort. As a child, Singha came across uniformed British officers issuing instructions to sweepers as well as babus to ensure that the fortified palace, particularly the Chhatta Bazaar, was spic and span. And the shops continued to sell jewellery and handicrafts. Arif Husain, a fourth generation shopkeeper, got ownership of the shop because his great grandfather, a military photographer, was allotted space by the British. “But my grandfather converted the studio into a handicraft shop,” he says.
The entire market was looked after with a lot of care and meticulous planning. Nowadays, one stumbles upon uncouth visitors spitting betel juice and sweepers cleaning the market perfunctorily.
Right at the entrance, one realises that the red sandstone fort has transformed into a faded fortified enclosure. The ASI, responsible for the upkeep of the edifice, has apparently not paid attention to this aspect so far. The Red Fort urgently needs cleaning and perhaps adequate supply of limestone to strengthen its massive walls.
The ASI plans to set up an outlet within the Red Fort premises for refreshments and snacks. But so far not a single eatery is functioning in the sprawling area. “Right now, our priority is to make arrangements for the August 15 function,” says the official.
Meanwhile, on a hot June afternoon, one witnesses anxious visitors searching for bottled water and soft drinks. The earlier food outlets have been discontinued.
Furthermore, visitors have to trudge at least one kilometre to enter the fort as no feeder buses or e-rickshaws are allowed. All this has hampered the business of the shopkeepers.
