Set within the peaceful, serene property of Dusit Devarana, Chi Ni’s own aesthetics blend perfectly with the part manicured, part rustic ambience of the resort itself. The approach to this Chinese fine dining restaurant is scenic — long winding pathways flanked by still pools of water and lush green lawns. The interiors have been designed by Bob Puccini, and almost as soon as you enter it, you find yourself enveloped by a sense of cool, calm comfort. A cavernous space that’s been fitted large windows, high ceiling and the luxurious hush of fine dining, Chi Ni’s interiors give you the sense of wide open spaces, and its live kitchen and Chef’s interactive tables hold the promise of great food. With sunlight flooding in through the large windows, there is plenty of natural lighting that compliments the chill of the air conditioning perfectly.
Only recently did this restaurant open its doors to diners for lunch, and the move was marked by a four course oriental fusion spread curated by Chi Ni’s Chef Ban. While the restaurant does offer you the a la carte menu for lunch, the set menu is perhaps the better, and smarter option. Not only does it provide you a range of the Chef’s best dishes, but also gives you your money’s worth.
Chef Ban later tells me that both innovation and tradition are equally important to him, as is the use of natural, organic produce. “We make all our own sauces, and grow a lot of our own vegetables,” he adds. With over 20 years of experience in Chinese modern cuisine, Szechuan Cold-Hot Cuisine, Hong Kong Cantonese Cuisine, Malaysian Local Food and Singapore Chinese, Chef Ban now brings the full impact of his extensive work to Chi Ni’s kitchen, and adapts it to offer the Indian diner something unique and delicious. In his set menu, he puts options that have shined on the a’la carte menu, and diners can pick one dish each from an option of three or four, for each course.
My own lunch begins with the seafood ash gourd soup, and even before I’ve tasted the rest of the dishes, I wonder at if this one might just be my favourite. This smoky, light soup is both delicate and wholesome, and the chef has been especially generous with the shrimps. The quantity is average, and just enough for one person. With perfect timing, my next course arrives just as I am finishing the last dregs of the soup.
A tasting platter of the appetisers listed in the set menu, along with the central attraction – soft shell crab sitting on a bed of beautifully shredded fresh mango. While the crab isn’t part of the set menu, the rest of the dishes – wasabi Shrimps, blanched baby spinach and chicken lettuce wrap – are. I begin with the wasabi shrimps, and I’m not disappointed at all.
The flavours are in perfect sync, and the wasabi just strong enough to add a punch to the dish without making things uncomfortable. The spinach dish doesn’t stand out, specifically, but isn’t bad either. The chicken lettuce wrap, an open dish with the filling sitting on a cup of fresh, crisp lettuce, is a good appetiser, one which impresses, even if it doesn’t shine. The real winner of this round is, as I had expected it would be, the crab. Fried in the lightest batter, the dish retains all of the delicate flavours of the crab, and the mango adds a tarty sweetness to it which ties everything together.
I move on to the mains with a pleasant awareness of the fact that I’m not yet full. The mains arrive and the first thing I notice is that their portions are generous. There is a steamed Chilean sea bass Szechuan style, bean curd, three kinds of mushrooms and 3 chilli chicken. The mains are accompanied by a portion of ginger fried rice.
Everything looks delicious, and I wonder at how difficult it would be to pick just one of these from the set menu. The sea bass is cooked to perfection, and lightly dressed in the Szechuan style sauce that makes things interesting. The sauce itself is rich and hot, and makes for a good companion for the milder flavour of the fish itself. The home-made tofu in the vegetarian option is excellent, and so are the mushrooms it is accompanied by.
Drenched in the spicy, thick sauce, the dish is one of the menu’s big triumphs. Finally, we come to the 3 chilli chicken, which is, keeping true to its name, the much spicier option on the menu. It comes recommended for anyone who enjoys chilli and doesn’t mind the strong flavours they promise.
We finally come to the dessert, and I’m served a portion of the splendid baked yogurt, which is splendid indeed. Intricately and beautifully plated, the dessert boasts rich colours and textures that promise a great end to a wonderful meal – something that is proved on my first bite. The thick, rich yogurt that’s sweet and light, the tartness of the raspberry – everything comes together perfectly, and I get my sweet Chi Ni goodbye.
Address: Dusit Devarana, NH-8, Samalkha, New Delhi, Delhi 110037.
The set menu is priced at INR 2900 + taxes for vegetarian and INR 3200 + taxes for non vegetarian
