I feel like I am back at Kozhikode beach, savouring one of my favourite drinks — the nannari sarbhath.
But, cut to reality. The servers at Bombay Brasserie look at me in amusement, as I relish each drop of the cool lemonade with black khus khus seeds floating on top.
The Calicut to Coimbatore Food Trail at the restaurant offers a true slice of Malabar cuisine.
As the name says it, they have kept the local taste buds in mind as well. The idea to merge the Kongu Nadu and Kozhikode dishes was that of Raja, Executive Chef at Bombay Brasserie, who has worked in Le Meridien and Taj Malabar. “The two share similarities in terms of the use of coconut grating, spice and curry leaves.”
He observed the women of Kozhikode at work in their kitchens during his stint in Kerala to master the recipes.
A shamiana has been put up outside the hotel for diners, who opt for the Kozhikode menu. In the glow of candlelight, we begin the fare with kappa and chammandi, a quintessential Kerala dish. The side dip is spicy, and the tapioca pieces are served in banana leaf. This is followed by a fluffy parotta with the spicy Kozhi roast. The gravy is topped with curry leaves.
The Chicken Kondattam, a Kongu dish, comes with a delicious dose of coconut chips.
There is fish, specially sourced from the seas of Kozhikode! Fried seer fish and karimeen, served on a bed of onions, will take your breath away. The masala has seeped into the marrow and flesh.
The meaty karimeen was a surprise. As one of the Malayali foodies in the group said, “They are always a bony bunch. This is quite fleshy,” as he happily bit off the tail. The seafood platter includes squid and crab. “Each day, there will be a special dish,” says the chef. The mutton balls, typical of Coimbatore cuisine, go well with the Calicut Mappila Biryani, which is a winner with its fried onions, cashew nuts and raisins. There is total silence, as we dig into the flavourful rice. One friend, who decided to go for a light snack, ended up asking for many helpings.
The biryani served with pappadam also causes a few amused looks among the non-Malayalis. “I have never seen pappadam being served with biryani,” says one.
To which, his Malayali friend responds, “Oh, this is different from your appalam. Back in Kozhikode, biryani, along with crispy pappadams and chutney, is a great combination.”
The vegetarians are sure to fall in love with the crunchy vazhapoo vadai and the soft cutlet made of unripe jackfruit.
There are different kinds of pathiris too. And, not to forget ammachi’s mango curry, a simple dal gravy topped with tangy pieces of the summer fruit.
The idea to introduce a Kerala menu involved a lot of debating and discussing, says Vijayakumar, CEO of the Bombay Brasserie chain in Coimbatore.
“The chain focuses exclusively on North Indian cuisine. The board members in Mumbai were a little hesitant about this. They think South Indian cuisine is boring. We had to convince them about the diversity of Kozhikode cuisine.” They are planning to tap into the South Indian food market, says Vijayakumar.
We round up the meal with chakka pradhaman, which announces its entry with the strong aroma of ripe jackfruit.
The dessert, made in coconut milk, and the chakka varattiyathu puree (a sinful concoction of the pulp, cooked in ghee and jaggery) reminds me of childhood, where I waited endlessly for summer when every grandmother in town looked upon it as her duty to cook this yummy dish.
The festival is on till July 17 for lunch and dinner. For details and reservations, call 0422-4202122/ 0422-4212223.
