Stuffed with good taste

October 13, 2016 05:00 pm | Updated 07:00 pm IST

A well made kozhukattai is not just tasty but is like a work of art

Kozhukattai with a difference

Kozhukattai with a difference

I am always ready for piping hot kozhukattais, sweet or savoury. It’s a taste I acquired from childhood when we were offered these succulent treats made in celebration of the elephant god’s birthday. Whether stuffed with a mixture of coconut and jaggery or with a spicy filling of cooked, tempered lentils they were all succulent and delicious.

We were treated to kozhukattai as neivedhyams during navarathiri as well. But then, I was served a kozhukattai unlike any other that I had eaten before. They even looked special with their pleated edges that overlapped to form an attractive border. They were obviously made by an experienced hand. The texture of the covering was perfect. The stuffing was made of fresh coconut with just the right amount of sugar . Because these are steamed, some of the water vapour gets trapped into the dumpling and mixes with the coconut and sugar. So ,with every mouthful you are treated to a squirt of the light liquid that carries traces of the flavour of the rice dough that it is encased in.

The kozhukattais were homemade. Jayagopal and family who have been making these confections for decades refer to these as “ jilladikkai ” (the name given by the local Chettiar community). They make it at home and retail it at their tiny shop called Vasavi sweet house. I recall visiting this place during our food walk in Town Hall. But I don’t remember tasting these kozhukattais that day. The shop sees a steady stream of customers.

I ask the owner if he could may be add some chilli powder to the rice flour for the savoury kozhukattais, the lady sitting on the side frying something gave me an earful. She sternly ticked me off by asking if I wanted people to eat the kozhukattais or throw them away. Then she said something more about not wasting food!

The cooks churn out hundreds of kozhukattais with the same precision and their skill and artistry is noteworthy. While the tiny place that they operate out of is not the cleanest of spaces to eat in, the food is made fresh every day and served hot. Judging by the long queue and the familiarity they exhibited with their customers, they are obviously frequented for their tasty offerings.

They do take orders in bulk if informed a few days in advance. These steamed sweets have a shelf life of only a day. Jayagopal says it’s best eaten the day that they are made . I buy a dozen to take back home. As I make my quick exit I know a pair of eyes are boring into my back disapprovingly for having dared to teach them how to make kozhukattais. Maybe I will bake her some cupcakes for Diwali to show her I meant no disrespect.

Vasavi Sweet Shop, Opposite Vasavi Perumal Temple, Vysial Street, Coimbatore. Contact: 9787575291

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