The Serbs have arrived. It’s a good sign. Five years ago, we were still coming to grips with ‘authentic’ Italian. Who would have thought the culinary landscape would open up so rapidly in a city famous for being “conservative.” I use the quotes deliberately, because the truth is we’re not conservative: just practical. This can however be an intimidating place to introduce new ideas, whether they are concepts or flavours. Because, in the long run, Chennai doesn’t care about flash and glamour. You have to have substance, and also be very convincing, to survive here.
Nevertheless, this is the right time for new flavours. Thanks to a decade of dedicated bright Chefs and enterprising restaurateurs, there’s a sizeable section of the city that is more willing — even eager — to experiment with food. For a restaurant to survive, of course, this has to be more than just a niche market. Hence, even in modern Chennai, newly-opened Basil With A Twist is a gutsy experiment. And one that I hope will succeed, because restaurants like this widen our horizons.
Given the fact that expatriate chefs are still a novelty outside the luxury hotels, a lot of the buzz around Basil has been triggered by the Serb trio - Bogdan (who runs the restaurant with his local partner Bhagheerathi) and his two chefs, Jovan and Goran. First names only? “Actually the chefs want to be known as just J and G,” stage whispers Bogdan. I’m nonplussed. “J and G?” He nods, “They want to fit in.” Not sure how to explain that we’re not quite so ‘hip-hop’ in Chennai, I decide to flow with the tide. “So who’s that waving to us now?” I whisper to Bogdan. “Ah. That’s G.”
Goran turns out to be as charming as the rest of the team. “I was in Belgrade and Bodan asked if I’d like to come to India. I thought: ‘Wow. When else will I get an opportunity to just move to India?’ So I said yes,” he grins. As for his food? Modern European is usually the easiest way to describe this style of minimalistic, Europe-inspired, ingredient-driven cuisine. Except, this menu also has anomalies like Middle-Eastern falafel, old-fashioned moussaka and yakitori skewers. “Well, I like yakitori,” shrugs Chef Goran, “So I put it in.”
Perhaps ‘flexible European’ would be a better description. The menu strikes a careful balance between the exotic and the familiar. Since ‘European’ food in India usually means Italian and French food, with a smattering of Spanish, Greek and German, the very fact that this kitchen specialises in the food of the region in and around the Balkans and the Adriatic Sea sets it apart. In keeping with their name, they also endeavour to add a quirky twist, just to keep things interesting.
Our meal begins with crusty bruschetta topped with a glossy olive tapenade. It’s drizzled with dark, syrupy balsamic, a nice change from the wimpy balsamic imitations so many restaurants try to palm off on customers assuming we won’t know any better. The traditional tomato and basil bruschetta, however is insipid. Unlike Indian food, which can be cloaked in powerful spices, with food like this, so much depends on the quality of the vegetables, which can be incredibly variable in India. This is going to be one of Basil’s biggest challenges: getting supplies of unerring quality each and every day.
Thanks to repeated visits to Kasimedu, they seem to have got their fish supplies in order. We try the Dubrovnik grilled fish with Dalmatian potatoes: perfectly flaky mahi-mahi topped with an emerald pesto. The overwhelmingly starchy potatoes are less interesting, boiled and tossed with white wine and spinach. My steak, however, is arguably the best in the city. Cut fairly thick, it’s been skilfully seared so the sides are almost crusty, but the insides still tender and juicy. It’s swathed in a buttery peppercorn-studded dark sauce and served with a pile of crunchy peppers. No fries, buttered rice or bread. “Because that would be American comfort food,” says Bogdan. No localising to adapt to local tastes. “Because we do spices not flavours,” he adds, explaining their approach to food and customers.
It’s a sensible adaptation of the old ‘customer is king’ system. Today, ambitious chefs aim to expand diners’ horizons instead of just meeting expectations. It’s more risky, but also more satisfying: When it works. If it works. Basil’s team is approaching this challenge cleverly, carefully sourcing quality ingredients and finding innovative ways to introduce new flavours in a comforting setting. Dessert, for instance, is a classic airy mascarpone-laced cheesecake, with a satisfyingly fudgy base, stained purple with tart berries that add a clever slick of sourness to the sweet concoction.
“It not fusion. It not Italian. It not European,” says Borgdan. He pauses for a minute and then states thoughtfully, “It is what it is.”
Basil with a Twist is at 58A, Habibullah Road, T. Nagar. Call 9543603355 for reservations. A meal for two costs roughly Rs. 2000.
