When ‘India Enchanted’, the Spring/Summer 2013 collection, was first launched at the Paris Fashion Week, Amrapali’s fine craftsmanship combined with Manish Arora’s trademark colours and standout motifs gave traditional Indian jewellery the trendiest makeover yet. The collection caught the eye of the fashion fraternity both abroad and back home, making Arora’s collaboration with Rajasthan-based jewellers Amrapali — Manish Arora for Amrapali — coveted statement jewellery.
Four seasons since, the creative collaboration has seen several exquisite pieces, featuring motifs such as hearts and lotus flowers — seen in Arora’s ready-to-wear collections and strong animal presence — a bridal haathphool with a flaming pink dragon and kadas topped with tiger heads. The collections, channelling Arora’s kitsch and Amrapali’s classic style, will see its final instalment in October this year. The Manish Arora-Amrapali Autumn/Winter 2014 collection plays-off candy colours in Peruvian designs with cupcake and candy cane motifs in neon and bright hues. In an email interview, the jet-setting Manish Arora talks about his fulfilling collaboration with Amrapali and the benchmark they’ve set with four seasons of exquisite Indian jewellery.
With the collaboration, you’ve pushed boundaries and reinvented ethnic Indian jewellery. Where did the inspiration come from?
It differed each season. For example, in the SS14 collection, the mood was 1920s, its opulence and grandeur. While more recently, the FW14 collection was inspired by Candy Tribe. I try to stay true to my design philosophy, while imbibing Amrapali jewellery’s ethos and craftsmanship.
Before starting you dug deep into Amrapali’s archives of antique-inspired jewellery and tribal motifs. What were your thoughts at that point?
Amrapali jewellery has a rich tradition and I was just trying to find a balance, where we could synergise and create a product that has the best elements of Amrapali and my design aesthetics.
Animal motifs and unique enamel work define your collections. What other techniques did you explore with the brand?
All pieces are hand-enamelled (minakari) and handcrafted.
The fourth and final collection features candy colours and candy motifs. What kind of spin does this give Indian jewellery?
This is quite a deviation from traditional Indian jewellery. But it stands true to being colourful, whimsical and defining.
What do you take away from your long collaboration with Amrapali. Which is your favourite collection and why?
It was artistically challenging yet refreshing to design jewellery, and Amrapali was encouraging and cooperative through the process. I look forward to future projects with them. My favourite collection has to be SS13, inspired by our tradition and with a lot of animal motifs.
