L. Lakshman on the anti-Hindi agitations, car festivals in Mylapore and a city of gracious people
Say old Madras and I think of silence. No blaring loudspeakers or rude honking in the 1950s and 1960s. A legacy of British decorum? Shop keepers were polite, so were their customers. The policeman was a respected person. The postman in khaki knew the members of the families to whom he diligently delivered mails, and was often given coffee or buttermilk. Our postman used to regularly bring fresh murungakai for us!
My maternal grandfather's home, now the Gopalapuram Girls' High School, had a park and a playground close by. They survive still, though most of the open spaces in every part of the city remain only memories for senior citizens. Mowbrays Road and Cathedral Road were not wider in the 1950s, but because of less traffic and fewer people, they seemed huge.
Maattuvandis, rickshaws and cycle rickshaws were common. You could count the cars — Morris Minor and Buck Fiat, and the occasional Chevrolet or Dodge. I cycled from home on Edward Elliots Road to school on Harrington Road, safely, not just because there was less traffic. In small-town Madras, people were caring. The Madras of my childhood was a green sheltering space.
Outings were few. An occasional ther thiruvizha in Mylapore, or to hear the police band play martial tunes at the beach on Sundays, near the Gandhi statue, flanked by liveried policemen on horseback.
As a college student, I queued outside Elphinstone or Odeon, to get tickets for “Roman Holiday” or “The Guns of Navarone”. Our dress? The idea was to cover the body — not style or fashion or colour scheme!
Connemara, Gaylord and Kwality were the swankier restaurants, but college boys confined themselves to Sukha Nivas, Kumbakonam Vilas and Rayar's Café. Did girls visit these places? Never! We boys knew our sisters' friends, but socialising with girls was taboo. We used to play billiards in a parlour near St. Thomas' Church and hang around outside to see the girls from a Catholic centre going to the beach. Actually talking? We wouldn't dare!
Rosary Matric Convent ‘evicted' the boys after Class 4. A ladies club launched a school for the stranded boys of my batch, and Vidya Mandir was born!
Parents were figures of authority with limited imagination about careers — engineering or medicine. My parents didn't catch me smoking. But, I couldn't lie when my mother found out about my eating non-vegetarian food! Teachers insisted on a mechanical process of learning everything by heart. Surprising, given the value system of those days.
I recall how the eveninger The Mail maintained quality, untouched by tabloid sensationalism. No one could miss the screaming headlines in every paper during the 1966-1967 anti-Hindi agitation. What an uproar! Schools and colleges were closed for weeks. C.N. Annadurai's measured speech at the Parliament against the imposition of Hindi was hugely reported.
Kamaraj and Annadurai were both my father's friends. There are photographs of Anna carrying me as a child. He came through as a thorough gentleman. Kamaraj had a large heart and a sense of purpose. I remember his asking my father to raise funds for the Avadi session of the Congress.
The death of two political leaders affected me deeply — the assassination of John F. Kennedy, a personal hero; and later, the death of Lal Bahadur Shastri. Shastri had become a family friend during his frequent visits to his son's home in Madras, diagonally opposite our own. His son worked in Ashok Leyland.
My cricket-mad uncle took me to league games, and overrode my father's objections to my cutting classes during Test matches. Lunch at the ground was a feast. My foodie-uncle ensured home-delivered masaal dosai, vadai, bajji and adai for his 15-member team!
A great excitement was the return of the Test match to the MCC grounds after 15 years, with a star-studded team from the West Indies, including Gary Sobers and Rohan Kanhai. We queued up at 3 a.m. to get tickets. Pongal also heralded the kathadi season — manja making and cutting each other's strings from terraces and the beach. Strange alms seekers appeared on the streets — boom boom maadu, Govinda man… the gudugudupandi wore a veshti, black coat, murukku meesai and sivappu pottu. He had a drumming gadget in hand!
I grew up in a golden age. Where are the spaces for children to play outdoors now? Or, streets to cycle safely? A gracious way of life?
L. LAKSHMAN Born in 1946, he has a degree in engineering and an MBA from London. He heads Rane Holdings Limited and is the past President of ASSOCHAM, ACMA, Madras Chamber of Commerce & Industry, and is an active member of various industry forums. Chennai knows Lakshman, who retired as Chairman of the Rane Group of Companies, as a veteran with 35 years experience in the automotive industry. He is also a connoisseur and singer of Hindustani classical music.
I REMEMBER
My first introduction to a Test match in 1959 at the Nehru Stadium turned into a clamorous drama as a bouncer from Roy Gilchrist, the controversial bowler, hit our batsman G.S. Ramchand. The crowd roared and stamped in anger. But, Ramchand gamely got a few stitches put in and returned to play.
Keywords: Memories of Madras, Gowri Ramnarayan, Mylapore, Madras, anti-Hindi agitations




@ Sujay Rao : You are correct that is Luz corner with "Kamadhenu
theatre" .
I lived in Triplicane 27 years back. Still remember the walks from kannagi statue to labor statue eating 'cut mango' which had all flavours in one-spice, sour, sweet and salt. How excited we were to see a ship which had wrecked after a cyclone at Marina.Aroma of small onion sambhar with crispy-soft potato and moon applalam at Sydogi still lingers.Ramson's bakery cakes and Kwality ice cream at Bigstreet were a treat.Festivals like vinayagar chaturthi where we used to bring clay ganesha at home were fun.Divali 'laksmi-vedi' and 'sanguchakra' made our day...too busy to eat the nice sweets mom prepared for a whole week.one paisa used to get us 10 color chalks and 10 match wrappers! A moderate walk away used to bring us to Brijwasi lassi, Casino theater and Gaitey theater.Children's theater used to show movies like 'It's a mad mad world' etc.The Parthasarthi tank and surrounding buildings where i had my thread ceremony... chepauk stadium where great matches were played....avin rose milk...kuralagam ice cream...After 27 years i long to bring my daughter raised in singapore and US to share her father's humble past but as many of you observed here the old world is best in our dreams !
I lived in Madras (as we called it then) in the 70s. I lived on Edward Elliots road. Even before that in the 60s we used to visit Madras for our vacations and those days it was a beautiful tree lined road. Lovely, shady huge trees on both sides. We were adjacent to the cine actress Padmini's house. There were hand-drawn rickshaws in those days and hardly any traffic. The first red bus cranking by our road woke us up at 5am. The punctuality the public buses maintained was amazing! It was quiet most of the day except for the 'arisi pori seller', a hawker selling fancy items calling out 'ribbon' in a rising crescendo and a few others. On my recent visit to the city, Edward Elliots Road(Dr. Radhakrishnan Road) bears not even a faint resemblance to its past!
I lived in Mylapore in the 50s and 60s. In the photo one can see the "Kamadhenu theatre". Life was peaceful and at the same time interesting. I have travelled in trams from the Luz Corner upto Santhome.
Nice going down memory lane!
I think this photo was taken in Luz corner. Can anyone correct me if I am wrong?
Sujay Rao Mandavilli
A very good article about old Madras, beautifully written.
this article is very nostalgic! 1964-65, at the height of anti-Hindi agitation, I was in Pre-University course. I used to walk from Ayyanavaram (Tawker's Choultry) to (Men's)Govt Arts College at that time located near Connemara Hotel on MountRoad (and then all the way back). My walk took me through Kellys, Nehru Park on Poonamalle High Road, Don Bosco school, Commander-in-chief road and finally to the College. I could not afford the bus fare. Tawker's charities provided me free board and room. It was such an enjoyable walk. Weather was very pleasant. I stayed in Tawker's for six years until I finished my masters in Vivekananda college. Very enjoyable days of my life.
This is a wonderful feature and brings back many memories of my happy boyhood in Mylapore. I have a request: If Hindu could identify the exact location shown in the photograph and date it, that would be just terrific. I have always felt that the exact time and date info that Ansel Adams provided added poignancy to his unforgettable photographs of nature. Thanks!
I grew up in Madras in Mylapore, studied in Kesari High and Vivekananda college.I remember the Edward Elliot's road was lined with Baniyan Trees with 15 ft foot paths on either side for pedastrians,all the way from Marina to Mount road. Now when I come to Chennai, I am " moved to tears " by pollution !!
I lived in Madras in the sixties. It was a very nice and pleasant city to live in. Moving from Bombay I could appreciate Madras and its many advantages not being as big and busy as Bombay. Mount Road was always busy and Spencer's with its very cute tea room was the place to meet for a cup of tea or coffee. There was Woodlands near Gemini Circle. Gymkhana Club was popular and full of good entertainment for its members and guests. Also, there were interesting social events at the boat club and once in a way at the Race Club. People were always gentle and courteous. English was the popular language of the business and corporate people. I enjoyed my few years in Madras.
Nice narration. We surely miss the Old feel of Chennai.
Very interesting recollection of our good old Madras. I grew up in Triplicane (my paternal uncle was Addison's Doraiswamy}. As a young boy, I remember playing cricket on Nagappier Street. I studied for two years in Hindu High School, and later, as an adult, used to dine in Indira Bhavan, Ratna Cafe, Sydoji Mess or Geetha Cafe. Occasionally, I saw movies in New Elphinstone near Round Tanah, Mount Road. The movie "Chase a crooked shadow" was one which I enjoyed thoroughly along with my elder brother. Having learnt shorthand, I recall trying to take down Nehru's speech in Marina once, and I remember that Nehru was very critical of Rajaji as living in bullock-cart age (Rajaji must have floated his Swatantra party then)! I often used The Hindu's editorials to practise my shorthand. Later, I moved to Perambur, having got a job in TAFE, Sembiam and I had the opportunity to attend The Mail's centenary celebrations, and the following dinner at Mr. Sivasailam's bungalow in Edward Elliots Road. Lal Bahadur Shastri's death at Tashkent, as described in The Hindu, moved me to tears. Once Mr. Cho addressed a massive meeting in the beach before elections; even in those days, he had thousands of admirers. I must have criss-crossed the entire Madras city by cycle hundreds of times. I put in some years of service in Ashok Leyland also, before moving to Jakarta two decades back. Whenever I visit Chennai now, I can't even identify some localities - I never heard of 100 feet road! Atrocious traffic now. Everyone in Chennai is maddeningly busy now - can't say even hello to anyone!!
Sweet memories of old time .Had the British stayed there it would have been better for the Indian people.
Very nostalgic and beautifully articulated.
Every one appreciates his/her past. Time keeps passing. Our present to day shall become past and our kids won't like their present. Let us gather some thing good from any time and accumulate to build our Indian culture. As time passes we deteriorate. Today we are more insecure. More self-centered. Families are broken. The whole concept of Sahitya, Sangit and Kala has changed into computers, Pop music and pornography. I am 77 and very sad to see how fast we are getting deteriorated. Is it because we don't like ourselves and imitate others? What is the root cause? Let us think seriously.
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