Of biryani, naans and tehzeeb

A warm summer evening is perfect for some Hyderabadi mehmaan nawazi with Old City offering a lot to tourists and locals alike

March 27, 2015 07:33 pm | Updated 07:33 pm IST

An evening at Charminar is the perfect way to discover the city’s culture. Photo: G. Ramakrishna

An evening at Charminar is the perfect way to discover the city’s culture. Photo: G. Ramakrishna

Hyderabad might be a rapidly developing urban space with something for everyone. But what sets the city apart is the fact that it still manages to retain its old-world charm. If the city offers people a fast-paced lifestyle and glitz on one hand, it also offers them a glimpse of its rich past on the other hand, along with the nawabi pace of life and tehzeeb and the love for good food. And this is exactly why tourists make a beeline to the Charminar area – for a taste of the past. It’s the perfect go-to destination for those looking to spend a warm summer evening soaking in some Hyderabadi culture.

Step into the Charminar area and you will be struck by all the hustle and bustle of the Old City. Yes, the monument itself is the star attraction but there is much more. What the area calls for is a leisurely evening of walking, shopping, exploring, discovering the Hyderabad of yore and of course indulging in some good food. So arm yourself with a pair of good footwear and some water at hand, maybe a camera even and set out to see the city with a new perspective.

The best way to get there would probably be by an auto rickshaw or a bus; the many One-Ways and the traffic snarls are best avoided. Get off at the junction where Madina once stood proud and tall and begin your walk towards the historic monument. Both sides of the street will be buzzing with activity with hawkers selling everything from beads and semi-precious stones, irani samosas, children clothing, undergarments, footwear, henna, surma, ittar, home-made chocolates, osmania biscuits, fruits to even plastic ware.

Peep into one of the many stores lining the street and you’ll be amazed at the variety of bangles, pearl jewellery and bridal wear they have to offer. As you walk past the first of the four kamans that forms the Char Kaman, you’ll notice a vendor known for his melt-in-the-mouth kebabs. Walk further on and cross the Mecca Masjid and you’ll come across a hole-in-the-wall store that makes the freshest chaar-koni naans; pick up a few to enjoy with your irani chai or a plate of paya.

Any visit to Charminar warrants a walk down Laad Bazar. With their windows shimmering with bangles of all kinds it’s a good place to pick up gifts for loved ones back home.

Walk a little further down and you’ll be greeted by rows of stores selling spices and traditional vessels like biryani handis, paan-daans, khaas-daan and even surma-daani. When this writer walked into one of the stores to pick up a biryani handi she was engaged in an interesting conversation with the store owner. The topic of the conversation ranged from authentic recipes for biryani and dalcha to the Bermuda Triangle. That’s another thing to look out for during your visit to the Old City. Take a break and share a cup of irani chai with that friendly store owner for interesting anecdotes and traditional recipes.

At the end of all that walking, drop into one of the many restaurants in the area to dig into a plateful of Hyderabadi Dum Biryani or to dunk some sheermal into a robust nihari. Or maybe just stop at one of the many falooda counters to cool off. An evening at Charminar might just be your chance to discover the rich cultural heritage of the city.

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