I once had a client who had a fascination for suits. He wanted to wear a suit everywhere. Ok, let’s add a jacket or a blazer to that. A suit is when the jacket and trousers are made of the same fabric. Any other separate will either be a jacket or blazer (most often worn for sport). Coming back to him, his suits looked great, his shirts were awesome, but he always wondered: Tie? Or no tie?
Here’s how you can wear a suit, jacket or blazer without a tie and still look like a million bucks.
The occasion: Certain occasions demand you wear a suit — like a formal dinner where the dress code is specified, or a business meeting. You really need to think about the situation rather than be embarrassed in the end. If you feel the place does not demand you to wear a tie, confidently go ahead without one. Most often, confidence is seen more clearly than the garment you wear.
Pick the right collar: When you’re not wearing a tie, your collar is what frames your face. It defines your chin and neckline. This is going to be defined by the placket (the panel where the buttons and button holes are) of the shirt. The collar should always be taut. To achieve this, always iron it before you wear your shirt. You could add a starch spray while ironing to make it stiffer. Use metal or plastic stays when storing expensive shirts so the collar remains in shape.
How much skin can you show? When your shirt is not bound by a tie, you are going to keep it unbuttoned. The number of buttons you can keep open comfortably depends on
• What message it could convey: the more the buttons unbuttoned, the more casual the look will get, to the point of being daring. Know your audience and assess the mood of the setting before you decide.
• The number of jacket buttons: if your jacket buttons up high, your shirt opening will be closed and look more formal. If the jacket has only one or two buttons, the opening will be wider and lend a more casual look.
Wear an undershirt: Undershirts are as important because they can keep you warm in colder climate, absorb sweat in hotter weather, keep the shirt from spoiling and give a smoothened outlook for a fitted shirt. However, when you wear an undershirt, ensure that it doesn’t show. Always try to wear a V-neck undershirt rather than a round neck to avoid it showing from the drop of the collar.
Accessorise: When wearing a suit, the necktie usually becomes the focal point. In its absence, accessories play an important part.
Cufflinks: Wear ones that have character and make a statement. A funky pair or something passed down generations works well.
Pocket square: Most men shy away from wearing pocket squares. It’s the next-most important accessory that draws attention after the tie. Use any handkerchief and keep quarter to half inch exposed.
Watch: Your watch should match your shoes and belt. Keep the metal on the watch the same as that of the belt buckle. If you’re wearing a leather strap watch, it should be the same colour as your belt and shoes.
Shoes: Shoes must always be polished and well shined. A formal, whole-cut shoe is best matched with a suit and will stand out. Loafers work well with light-coloured suits.
Lapel pin: Since you’re not wearing a tie, it’s a good idea to wear a lapel pin for a modern and trendy look. Wear one that compliments the overall outfit. Ensure that the suit, jacket or blazer is tailored to fit you. Never put the shirt collar outside of the jacket collar. Remember it’s all about being confident in what you wear.
The author is an image consultant
(Write to me at staystylish24x7@gmail.com)
