Romance with leather started while she was a curious student at the National Institute of Fashion Technology in Delhi. Early days as far as fashion was concerned but Sonal Verma was always been looking ahead of times. Her ability to impress fashionistas with her creativity, spunk on leather has been fetching her multiple entries to fashion weeks. And now the designer is all set to showcase her magic on the ramp for the third time at the upcoming Lakme Fashion Week in Mumbai.
To look star of the show on the ramp means intricate craftsmanship. Sonal says: “Embroidery opens multiple options. To create interesting textures I use primitive techniques that have been reinterpreted and intertwined with novel tools. I use traditional hand embroidery techniques like aari work or zardozi and dabka but infuse leather in them. This has to be done meticulously and patiently. While doing embroidery all the units or sequins have to be hand cut in the desirable shape with the use of an iron dye and then punched with hand so that the needle can go through. We use sheep leather, exceptionally soft, to allow the needle to pierce into the fabric. But it is a tedious procedure and expensive too as any wrong move can completely besmirch leather. The idea is to keep it complex and make a few exclusive numbers as against the tide of mass production.”
Normally people have this erroneous assumption that leather is worn only in winters. To alter that perception, the designer, who honed her skills under the tutelage of Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna, says: “I have pushed the boundaries and showcased that it is possible to use leather in minuscule way like in bits and patches in a way to accentuate the appeal of a dress. Experimentations and permutations have resulted in leather becoming an all season wear. Like I recently draped one of my models with cotton waistcoat with lycra with leather embroidery on the back. We also do leather earrings to make accessories attractive.”
Sturdiness provided by leather is the mainstay of all innovations. “It helps create textures that last forever. Leather has a natural wear and tear. As a designer I use traditional skills on leather, which is a quintessential part of my designs. While using traditional tools I change the methodology. This way we come up with new ideas. The idea is to present leather in never seen before forms like that of high fashion jewellery.”
On material used, she says: “Sheep leather is so soft that the weight is not much and can easily be used in outfits. Finishes vary from vegetables tanned with natural dyes to glossy foils depending on the usage and the collection.”
Her proficiency in leather has given her an added incentive to express her creativity in several ways. “My basic philosophy is to escape from straitjacket approach by striking a harmonious blend between ideas and possibilities. My work entails feelings, memories and emotions which are woven together with aesthetics. Bespoke fashion and lifestyle essentials are intertwined.”
And she mostly uses sheep skin which is exceptionally light and suitable for the present weather conditions.
Challenges faced while working on leather were manifold but soon things started falling in place. “Initially, I faced drawbacks like the finishing of leather getting spoilt. For this kind of work one needs to have an understanding of leather. Trial and error helped in creating my own style. This only comes over time and cannot be rushed into. While working on embroidery one needs to know technicalities like thickness of leather before piercing it with gold and silver metallic wires. Also the wires have to be strong enough to get inserted into leather.”
Changing the perception
Initially, leather was seen as a crude form of clothing, meant for guys on motorcycle.
“Earlier versions were only in dull colours like black, grey. So I provided alternative by making leather garments in unimaginable bright colours.
Normally my colour palette consists of an undertone of grey and swings between neutrals and the bejewelled colours.”
