Organic. Locally-sourced. Natural. These are the buzzwords in today’s food industry and the environmental and health conscientious among us. If not that, at the very least, it’s considered very cool to “go local”. But for Karen Anand, it has been a way of life since 1989, when she started a salad bar in Mumbai, using fresh local produce and importing items only when absolutely necessary.
India’s ‘gourmet guru’ has, as she puts it, “without making a big noise about it, been promoting local produce and producers for the longest time”. Born in Mumbai and raised in London, and living in Paris for a couple of years to study, before moving back to India, Karen’s love for food grew with her journey across the world.
“After coming back to Mumbai and moving to Pune, I wanted to have authentic Continental cuisine. I found that it is possible to recreate the same flavours with the kind of vegetables available here. And, that’s the message I wanted to spread,” she says.
Four years ago, with the aim of bringing a larger audience to the natural food market scene, Karen launched the Pune Farmers’ Market. “In our first market, we had 15 stalls. Now, there are over a 100 in each edition in Pune. A lot of brands such as Paper Boat and Raw Pressery launched at our market, simply because there was no other platform for them. We continue to be such a space,” she says.
Over the weekend, she brought the Chennai Market by Karen Anand to the city for the first time, at the courtyard of Phoenix MarketCity, Velachery. She’s not used to the humidity, and is understandably a bit exhausted from overseeing the market, since she landed in the city on Friday, and so we sit down for a chat at Starbucks. As she sips on a cappuccino, we talk about similar markets based in the city, and if this location is smart, considering it’s a fair distance away from the heart of the city.
“In other cities, we have had the market in star hotels. It might be a bit intimidating for people who aren’t used to it, and only those who are coming specifically for the purpose will visit. Here, a lot of visitors to the mall are curious about what’s happening, and have been sampling from various stalls. It makes it more accessible, I think.”
The sultry Saturday afternoon has turned into a pleasant, breezy evening, but with imminent rain clouds gathering overhead. And so, we walk around, Karen greeting stall owners and enquiring about the response. The fairy lights twinkle from the red tent-like stalls as curious visitors taste jams and chocolates, cheeses and teas. For some, it’s their introduction to gourmet, natural, locally-sourced products.
There are 28 stalls and 15 tables, which she considers a very small number. She tut-tuts that they have to go bigger next time around.
“My favourite thing about locally sourcing products is the people. I have met so many wonderful people who are passionate about what they do. That’s the best part,” says Karen. And when it comes to convincing people to go natural, she says they will be surprised by how authentic food can be, and the number of things one can do. “That’s why we launched our own brand of conserves, sauces and dressings under the Pune Farmers’ Market label. They are made with all-natural ingredients in our factory, just outside of Pune. You’ll understand the difference these things make when you taste them.” I do. I sample the wholegrain mustard dressing and citrus ginger marmalade. The flavours are unmarred by chemical additives and are refreshing.
When it comes to natural foods, the general perception and one of the main factors keeping people away is the price. Karen’s general rule of thumb is that, “a 20 per cent over the price of commercial produce is acceptable. Marking it up to 100 or 150 per cent makes it inaccessible. It is not enough that this is being produced; it’s also important that people are able to consume it and make it a way of life”.
